This section is from the book "The Table: How To Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It", by Alessandro Filippini. Also available from Amazon: The Table: How To Buy Food, How To Cook It And How To Serve It.
Put into a sugar - pan one pound of granulated sugar, with half a pint of cold water; place it on a brisk stove. Have a vessel containing two quarts of ice-water, and when the sugar comes to a boil dip the fingers of the right hand into the water, and quickly pass them all around the inside of the pan, being careful to avoid touching the sugar; repeat this two or three times. However difficult this operation may appear, it is essential that it should be done, in order to have the sugar in a perfect condition. Take care to dip the fingers into the ice-water each time. Let the sugar boil; then squeeze in three drops of lemon juice. To know when it is sufficiently boiled, have a thin piece of wood the shape of a larding-needle. Dip the point into the ice-water, and then plunge it into the boiling sugar; remove it quickly, and dip it immediately into the water again. Lift it out, and see whether the sugar adhering to the wood be thoroughly hard. If not, let boil again, and continue to test with the stick as before. To be certain that the sugar is perfectly done, place the point of the stick between the teeth, and bite it. Should the sugar stick to the teeth, it needs more boiling, but if it cracks easily without sticking, it is thoroughly done. Remove it immediately from the fire, and place the bottom of the pan in the ice-water to prevent the sugar from turning brown.
The above cooked sugar can be used for glazing dried fruits and candied fruits of all kinds; also to fasten on pieces of of nougat, and to make any kind of caramels, etc., etc.
 
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