Fish are good and fresh if the gills are red, the eyes full, and the body of the fish firm and stiff. As soon as possible after fish are caught, remove all scales (these may be loosened by pouring on hot water), and scrape out entrails and every particle of blood and the white skin that lies along the back bone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in cleaning. Rinse thoroughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect cleanliness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. To remove the earthy taste from fresh water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand over night, or at least a few hours, before cooking; rinse off, wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may be soaked over night in cold water; if very salt, change it. Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and unwholesome when underdone. For boiling, a fish-kettle is almost indispensable, as it is very difficult to remove a large fish without breaking from an ordinary kettle. The fish-kettle is an oblong boiler, in which is suspended a perforated tin plate, with a handle at each end, on which it is lifted out when done. From this tin it is easily slipped off to the platter on which it goes to the table. When no fish-kettle is at hand, wrap in a cloth, lay in a circle on a plate, and set in the kettle. "When done the fish may be lifted out gently by the cloth and thus removed to the platter. In frying by dipping into hot fat or drippings (or olive oil is still better), a wire basket, in which the fish is placed and lowered into the fat, is a great convenience. One of the most essential things in serving-fish, is to have everything hot, and quickly dished, so that all may go to the table at once. Serve fresh fish with squash and green pease, salt fish with beets and carrots, salt pork and potatoes with either. In cooking fish, care must be taken not to use the same knives or spoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will be tainted with the fishy flavor. In boiling fish, allow five to ten minutes to the pound, according to thickness, after the water begins to boil. To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done, the fish will separate easily. Remove the moment it is done, or it will become "woolly" and insipid.

Fish is made firmer if a little salt and vinegar is added to the water in which it is boiled. The water should be cold when the fish is put in, except in the case of salmon, when the water should be hot, to preserve the rich color. Garnishes for fish are parsley, sliced beets, fried smelts (for turbot), lobster coral (for boiled fish).

Whitefish Steamed

After cleaning the fish, salt it and wrap it in a clean white cloth and steam one hour. Dressing: Take a teacupful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir to a cream. Pour over this one pint of boiling water and let it come to a boil. Stir in two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, pour the dressing over the fish and serve.