This section is from the book "The London Art Of Cookery and Domestic Housekeepers' Complete Assistant", by John Farley. Also available from Amazon: The London Art of Cookery.
Gather mulberries when they are just changed from their redness to a shining black, and be sure to gather them on a dry day, when the sun has taken off the dew. Spread them thinly on a fine cloth on a floor or table for twenty-four hours. Boil up a gallon of water to each gallon of juice gotten out of them ; then skim the water well, and add a little cinnamon slightly bruised. Put to each gallon six ounces of white sugar-candy fineiy beaten ; then skim and strain the water, when it has been taken off and has settled, and put it to the juice of some more mulberries. To every gallon of the liquor add a pint of white wine or Rhenish wine. Let it stand in a cask to purge or settle for five or six days, and then draw off the wine and keep it cool.
Put two pounds of brown sugar and a pound of honey to every gallon of water; boil them half an hour, and take off the scum. Put into the tub a handful of walnut leaves to every gallon, and pour the liquor upon them. Let it stand all night, then take out the leaves, and put in half a pint of yeast. Let it work fourteen days, and beat it four.or. five times a day, which will take off the sweetness. Then stop up the cask, and let it stand six months.
Take twenty large quinces, gathered when they are dry and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarse cloth, and grate them with a large grater or rasp as near the cores as possible ; but do not touch the cores. Boil a gallon of spring water, throw in the quinces, and let them boil softly about a quarter of an hour. Then strain them well into an earthen pan on two pounds of double-refined sugar. Pare the peel off two large lemons, throw them in, and squeeze the juice through a sieve. Stir it about till it is very cool, and then toast a thin bit of bread very brown, rub a little yeast on it, and let the whole stand close covered twenty-four hours. Take out the toast and lemon, put the wine in a cask, keep it three months and bottle it. If a twenty gallon cask, let it stand six months before bottling it; and remember, when straining the quinces, to wring them hard in a coarse cloth.
Take twenty-four pounds of Malaga raisins, pick them and chop them very small; put them into a tub, and to each pound put a quart of water: let them steep ten or eleven days, stirring it twice every day, and mind to keep it covered. Then strain it off, and put it into a vessel, with about half a peck of the tops of clary, when it is in blossom. Stop it close for six weeks, and then bottle it off. In two or three months it will be fit to drink. As it is apt to have a great sediment at bottom, it will be best to draw it off by plugs, or rap it pretty high.
The beginning of March is the season for procuring the liquor from the birch trees, while the sap is rising, and before the leaves shoot out; for when the sap is come forward, and the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick and coloured, which before was thin and clear. The method of procuring the juice is, by boring holes in the body of the tree, and putting in fossets, which are usually made of the branches of elder, the pith being taken out. You may, without hurting the tree, if it be large, tap it in several places, four or five at a time, and by that mean save, from a good many trees, several gallons every day. If you do not get enough in one day, the bottles in which it drops must be corked close, and rosined or waxed ; however, make use of it as soon as you can. Take the sap, and boil it as long as any scum will rise, skimming it all the time. To every gallon of liquor put four pounds of good sugar, and the thin peel of a lemon. Then boil it half an hour, and keep skimming it well. Pour it into a clean tub, and when it is almost cold, set it to work with yeast spread upon a toast. Let it stand five or six days, stirring it often. Then take a cask just large enough to hold all the liquor, fire a large match dipped in brimstone, and throw it into the cask. Stop it close till the match is extinguished, then tun the wine, lay the bung on lightly till it has done working, then stop it close, and after three months bottle it.
Or, to a hogshead of birch water take four hundred of Malaga raisins ; pick them clean from the stalks, and cut them small. Then boil the birch liquor for one hour at least, skim it well, and let it stand till no warmer than milk. Then put in the raisins, and let it stand close covered, stirring it well four or five times every day. Boil all the stalks in a gallon or two of birch liquor, which, when added to the other when almost cold, will give it an agreeable roughness. Let it stand ten days, then put it in a cool cellar, and when it has done hissing in the vessel, stop it up close. It must stand at least nine months before it is bottled.
 
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