Sugar Boiling

Considerable attention to this art should be directed by those who desire to note the changes that take place in sugar at different degrees of heat, the expressions, "Boil to the crack," "To the pearl," "To the thread," "To the blow," etc., must be well understood and the simple method of determining these various conditions should be committed to memory.

Previous to explaining the "degrees" of sugar boiling it will be best to describe suitable vessels for holding the sugar and stoves for supplying the requisite heat. Sugar boilers or pans are made in a number of shapes from the old-fashioned Scotch saucepan, or "goblet," to the deep round pan, which finds the greatest favor among confectioners, whether for large or for small quantities, the pan being large or small accordingly. The stove used for receiving the pan should be fitted with a ring for the round, dome bottom of the pan to rest in, and the heat may be derived from either fuel or gas.

Another necessary implement is a marble pouring-plate, which should be laid on a table and supplied with different-sized frames. All skilled sugar boilers advise the use of a thermometer graduated from 50 degrees Fahrenheit to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, but, nevertheless, very few skilled boilers use them; they are so well accustomed to jndge of the degree to which the sugar has arrived by very simple tests, which will be described further on. It is observed that while the sugar is undergoing the process of boiling it is very nearly impossible for a learner to determine the exact degree which the sugar has attained without the aid of the thermometer, and even the journeyman confectioner finds it very useful.

Place in the pan seven pounds of loaf sugar broken into small pieces (white crystallized sugar will answer the same purpose), and add one quart of water; set the pan over the fire and allow its contents to boil. As soon as the bubbles show on the surface, lift the pan from the fire and examine the contents to see whether the sugar all is dissolved; stir with a spatula and crush any lumps that may remain. Place it again over the fire, putting a cover over the pan, and in ten minutes remove the cover and put in the thermometer, being careful that the lower portion of it shall be thoroughly imbedded in the sugar.

When the thermometer indicates 215 degrees to 220 degrees the degree called "smooth" is reached and the sugar is well adapted for crystallizing and making gum goods and liqueurs. At 230 degrees to 235 degrees "thread" it is used for liqueurs. Two hundred and forty to 245 degrees "feather" or "blow" quickly follows, requiring very close attention to the pan in order to avoid having the sugar boil over; this condition is suitable for candying fruits and for making fondants and creams. Two hundred and fifty degrees to 255 degrees, "ball" or "pearl," serves for cocoanut and other candies, cocoanut ice and grain sugars generally. Three hundred and ten degrees to 315 degrees, "crack," is required for all kinds of drops, rocks, taffies, and clear goods.

The hand test for these various "degrees" is not very satisfactory, although it is marvelous with what accuracy an experienced confectioner will judge of their arrival. He dips a clay-pipe-stem into the sugar when it is boiling and draws it between the finger and thumb; if the sugar feels oily it has reached the "smooth" degree (215 to 220 degrees). When the sugar forms small threads between the finger and thumb as they are opened out it has reached the "thread" degree (230 to 235 degrees), which may be either small or large. The "feather" degree (240 to 245 degrees), so quickly follows the thread that no test is necessary, although a toss of a little sugar in the air will show the feathered appearance. The "ball" degree (250 degrees to 255 degrees) is tested by dipping the sugar on a pipe stem and plunging into some cold water, and when you take it out the sugar should work up like putty. The "crack" (310 degrees to 315 degrees) is the most important degree of them all, as it is most generally wanted. When the pipe-stem is withdrawn from the sugar, as in testing for the "ball," the sugar should harden readily and snap off when bitten by the teeth. The next degree is called "caramel" and means that the sugar is on the point of burning.

It is well, before proceeding further, to make some reference to what confectioners term "cutting the grain" of sugar. Refined sugar, whether lump or crystal, when boiled to any degree above the "ball," or 250 degrees by the thermometer, is graining and would, if it were turned out into a pan, become a solid lump of hard, candied sugar, and to prevent this the grain must be cut by the addition of cream of tartar, which, in its action, will cause the sugar to become pliable while hot and transparent when it becomes cold; therefore it is necessary to use cream of tartar with all sugars intended for drops, rocks, taffies and clear goods. Some sugar workers prefer to use crystallized acetic, or citric acid, but cream of tartar is the best, safest and most to be relied upon, the quantity varying from one to two teaspoonfuls for a-seven-pound boil of sugar.

Sugar may be grained by boiling it to the "ball" degree, then, without adding the cream of tartar or other acid, working it with the spatula against the side of the boiler until the sugar becomes opaque. This sometimes requires considerable perseverance in order to bring it to a satisfactory condition.

With the knowledge as above outlined the confectioner should be prepared of commence manufacturing, and here his personal adeptness and ingenuity will have to serve him.

Rock is made by pouring the sugar into flat, rectangular, round or oval tins; drops, balls and lozenges can be made by passing the cooling sugar through a machine with cutting rollers or by pulling it into long rods over a hook and then cutting the pieces off with scissors in such a manner as to have the edges formed cross or lie horizontally as in cushions; and by means of the scissors numerous shapes can be cut out, such as diamonds, squares, wedges, triangles, etc.