This section is from the book "The Cook Book By "Oscar" Of The Waldorf", by Oscar Tschirky. Also see: How to Cook Everything.
Turkeys and fowls are trussed in the same way, so that what is said of one will do for the other. As there is a good deal to say on this subject it will be well to observe that when drawn according to the directions given under their respective headings the free use of the flour-mop or dredger is an absolute necessity, otherwise the bird will have a most revolting appearance, being besmeared with blood and other discoloring substances from the inside, and would be anything but attractive or appetizing.
The first thing to do with a fowl is to clean or "draw" it. When you have done this single it, chop off the toes of the claws, leaving about one-fourth of an inch, and serve the spurs in the same way; then chop off the pointed tips of the pinions and turn the wings in so as to make triangles on the back of the bird, the tips being pushed over the first joints.
Let it be said here, once for all, that the practice of fixing the gizzard and liver into the wings has long since been done away with, both being useful for other purposes, but spoiled by roasting or baking.
Having arranged the wings, lay the fowl on its back, and so that it will be on its folded wings also; then grip both thighs with one hand, and with a long packing needle threaded with twine (white in preference), pierce through the thighs and body in the bend of the joint. Draw the string through and push the needle under the joint of the wing nearest the leg alongside of it, then cut through the middle of the chick part, taking a stitch through the flap of the neck, drawn tightly down, stitching it onto the back, then through the opposite pinion. Press the leg into an even position and square the fowl nicely before you; when it is evenly and neatly shaped, tie the ends of the string fairly tight, That done press the leg down and pass the needle through the leg and body to the other side; draw it tightly and return through the flesh over the outside of the backbone, through again to the joint where the two ends are tied. Finally, cut a small slit in the apron just above the vent and force the cushion of the tail through this hole so that it remain in the bird out of sight. When fowls are stuffed the stuffing is pushed through the hole where the vent was before the tail was tucked in, and thrust clear up to the breast, filling it out like a crop. Should there be any difficulty in making the vent keep in its place, a small skewer must be used.
Some cooks cut the feet off at the ankle joints; that is, where the scaly part joins the feathers, and this practice is a good one; but when it is decided to leave the legs on they must be singed or rather burnt until the outer skin can be stripped off by drawing a cloth firmly along it. Take care to see that both the knots of the trussing-twine are on the same side of the bird, as they are more easily removed after cooking.
Pheasants, pigeons and partridges can be trussed for roasting in a similar manner to that described above.
Fowls and turkeys for broiling or braising require a somewhat different manner of trussing. Make an incision in the leg down to the bone, then insert the fingers in the vent and loosen the skin from the flesh all round the thigh. When the limb is thoroughly loosened from the skin lift the cut edge nearest the body of the bird, and, folding the limb, thrust it under the skin until it can be seen. The strings are then fastened over the feet.
The great difficulty about this latter method of trussing is to get the legs well under the skin without breaking it. The insufficient loosening of the skin is generally the prime cause of the trouble.
Geese and ducks are trussed by turning the wings under and fastening the legs close to the sides by skewers. When, as is sometimes the case, the feet of the duck are left on, the joint is severed and the toes cut off, and the feet scalded and peeled; the bird is then trussed in the usual manner. The feet are tied under the back against the points of the wings.
 
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