THIS subject, a most interesting one, is by no means easily handled by the practical gardener, for many difficulties present themselves which more or less revolve about the personal equation point. This is very likely called "love of plants," but it more nearly means the powers of ob-servation and memory which enable one man or woman to see more closely into the conditions neces-sary for healthy plant-life, and not only to draw t h e correct deduction, but to put the knowledge so obtained t o the properuse at the proper time. It is true that this does not apply to this form of gardening any more closely than to other agricultural and horticultural work. "Note the cause and obtain (if you can) the effect;" but all things considered, the life of a plant in a living room, with ordinary care, is precarious.

The conditions which obtain in rooms made for family use are not those best adapted to plant growth ; in most cases growth under glass is strained, to say the least, and of all artificial methods of plant-growing, in window gar-d e n i n g we have the most marked; there is nothing here advantageous to the plant ex-c e p t protection, and this often results in too high a temperature. We must contend against a dry and dusty at-mospfaere, against too lit tle light,against a certain lack of care; chiefly in giving water and in washing off dust and insects, and it is in this last function only that we can exercise much control. All this is a pity, for nothing is more ornamental than well-grown plants, nothing fits more readily into a room than flowers or foliage. Almost any growing plant will "match " with the surroundings.

A Cosy Corner.

Musa Ensete and Chrysanthemums.

Since the dry and dusty air and too little light are the chief obstacles, we must select for our purpose those plants best capable of resisting these influences. We must grow them in such a way as to provide the maximum amount of water, fresh air and light, and must not neglect the necessary care. My plan is to have a number of foliage plants - palms, cycads, ficuses and the like - which might be called permanent plants, and from time to time X introduce among them flowering plants, to give color and add interest and variety to the group.

Before making any list of plants suitable for this purpose, it will be well to consider certain general directions in the way of preparation, in order that we may start fair, with healthy specimens. Rotted sods, rotted cow manure, leaf-mould and sharp sand in about equal parts make a potting soil fit for growing almost any plant; the sand may be used in smaller quantities, and peat, if good and well seasoned, can be used in addition for many things or substituted for leaf-mould. Mix carefully and let the mass stand some weeks before using. It is not well to use anything smaller than a six-inch pot for house plants on account of the difficulties with the water supply. So I advise the use of drainage ; an inch or two of potsherds, depending on the size of the pot, covered with a thin layer of sphagnum. Pot firmly, taking care that the soil is not dry, and that at least one-half inch of space is left below the rim of the pot so that a good allowance of water can be given at one time. Plants should be potted just before making their season growth ; this is generally in spring, so as much as possible of this work should be done then. Plants growing in the open ground during the summer should be lifted at least a month before bringing into the house.

Keep for a few days in a shaded place, and do not over-water. The soil must be moist, but not wet; sprinkle the leaves if they flag, but do not water at the roots unless the soil is dry. Plants potted in the spring can be plunged in the open ground in summer or kept on the piazza or on the gravel-walks. They require plenty of water, a free circulation of air, and an occasional rain is grateful; much of the winter's success depends upon the good growth made in the open air.

I consider it important to bring plants into the house before the fires are lighted. Most houses are too warm as well as too dry ; and in this way they will become accustomed to their surroundings before the dryest and hottest time comes, viz : when the furnace fires are started and the gas or lamps are burning constantly. Any change is bad for growing plants, and is always to be avoided ; if unavoidable, prolong this period as much as possible. The change from growth in the open air to the house is great, and anything which can be done to lessen it is a boon. When the plants are brought in, the sunniest windows are to be chosen. At first, give them the coolest rooms, and those in which the most fresh air can be given daily. A good expedient to reduce the dryness of the air is to have a box two or three inches deep, fitted with a pipe through which the surplus water can be removed. This will hold the pots, which may be plunged in damp moss. By this means much moisture can be thrown into the atmosphere; such a box can be made in various sizes and shapes to fit different windows, and materially helps in the care of the plants. By using some of the handsome mosses a very attractive appearance can be given.

Plants should never be over-potted ; but the larger the pot the greater the volume of the soil, and the less change consequently in moisture and temperature, so good-sized pots are desirable. By the device of setting the pot, when possible, below the window sill, shade is obtained and the evaporation from the sides reduced. Glazed pots can be used advantageously, but there should always be a hole at the bottom.

The proper time for that most important part of plant culture, watering, is during the morning in cold and at night in warm weather, and it should be done regularly. My experience is that a given number of plants require about the same amount daily, but the demand is irregular, and it is always a delicate matter to meet it. The soil of any plant with green leaves or pushing roots should never become dry ; enough water should be given to keep the soil moist to the bottom of the pot, and, if possible, this should be given at one time. This generally means that you must water so that a little will escape through the hole at the bottom, and I have found it a good plan, with strong and well-established plants, to allow this surplus to remain in the box or saucer for half an hour or more. Part of this will be sucked up again, but if any remains at the end of this time it must be removed ; it would injure most plants to have free water constantly at the roots. The stronger the plant, however, the better it would stand such treatment. A good healthy English ivy or well-rooted fern is sometimes helped by allowing the water to remain for several hours.