This section is from the book "The American Garden Vol. XI", by L. H. Bailey. Also available from Amazon: American Horticultural Society A to Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants.
I hesitated to make soups for several years after beginning housekeeping because all the writers for young housekeepers made me think it was too formidable an undertaking, requiring extraordinary care and attention at every stage of the operation. French cooks are the best of soup makers and their first act is contrary to the usual instruction, which is to get a bone to start your soup. Now the marrow bone is all right if you have one on hand and want to save it, but it need not take the lead, except perhaps in the old-fashioned vegetable soup of New England, which is more properly named an "Irish stew." The French cook whose practice I have adopted starts his soup with solid meat. In the neighborhood of New York, where meat is high-priced, my butcher for 20 cents supplies two pounds of solid beef, free from fat, chopped in bits about an inch square.
Now we are ready to make our foundation. This meat I put on the fire in an agate kettle in 2 quarts of cold water. Let it come rapidly to a hard boil; skim; add ½ cup of cold water; let it boil again; skim a second time, and now it should be nearly clear. Set back where it will simmer, but on no account let it boil again. After simmering one hour add salt to suit the taste. Add half a carrot in fine slices and one small onion, sliced. Add parsley or other sweet herbs as desired, or that may be on hand. The East Indian currie powder, added in minute quantity, gives an indescribable flavor and may be used either with or without the vegetables. Simmer again for two hours, strain through a linen cloth, and when it becomes cold, skim if necessary. Thus is made the soup stock or foundation, with which we concoct all sorts of delicious combinations. It is usually stated that soup stock keeps well for a week; and so it will, on ice or in a cold place ; but as a general rule I prefer to make only enough to last for two or three days.
Generally at the bottom of the stock when settled, there is a half-pint or so that is not clear. This I use for stews and gravies.
Many people make soup stock so thick that when cold it forms a jelly. I find it less trouble to make it as above described.
Though I make the most of my own resources, I find it a great convenience to have on hand a few cans of the ready prepared Huckins' soups, which come in quart cans and may be had at any first class grocer's. They are put up in great variety, will keep any length of time and are really a superior article. Some of our friends utilize them for soup stocks, but we use them in their original form, a quart can furnishing ample material for soup for two dinners for six people. Though always useful, we find these ready made soups especially convenient when unexpected calls are made upon our hospitality.
To return to our own soups, chicken and veal in combination, with or without the addition of a ham bone, is usually taken for making "white" soup stock, but we make the beef answer for all purposes. The soup stock is the foundation and body of most of our soups, the particular kinds being made by various additions as follows. The amounts are enough for six people. With any of these soups toasted bread served in squares is a proper accompaniment.
Boil ½ cup of rice in a pint of stock till cooked. Press through a sieve and return to the fire with a pint of cream added. Let it come to a boil, being careful not to let it scorch. Serve immediately.
For Bouillon, simply heat the stock and add water if necessary. We vary the flavoring, at different times using currie, mace, clove, cinnamon and sweet herbs.
Take one spoonful of " brown thickening." Dissolve evenly in a quart of hot stock. Add a little grated carrot.
I have tried many ways, but my family prefer this. No stock is used. Take teacup Cleveland's split peas; put on cold water and boil till soft previously adding salt and a saltspoonful of currie powder. Rub through a sieve, return to the stove, add one tablespoonful of " brown thickening" and boil five minutes.
To the clear soups may be added rice, barley, macaroni, cut celery, noodles, etc.. to suit the taste or occasion.
Following are some recipes sent in by a valued friend. They are evidently for a family of 12 persons, and are somewhat complicated and more expensive than those above named.
Cut a chicken in pieces; wash it; butter a stew-pan and put the chicken into it with a blade of mace, an onion, a bay leaf and twelve white pepper corns. Let this simmer, closely covered, and to prevent browning shake the pan often. Then put in two quarts of hot stock (veal stock preferred) and simmer one hour. Put into another stew pan two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter; stir them together and cook until they begin to bubble, then strain the liquor from the chicken upon it, stir well and cook a few minutes. Take the white meat from the bones of the chicken, pound it in a mortar, add the stock, and rub all through a soup strainer. Just before serving add a pint of fresh cream and the juice of half a lemon. This soup must be made hot but not boiled after the chicken pulp and cream are added.
Melt two ounces of butter in a sauce-pan and fry in it half an onion, two young turnips, and a quart of Jerusalem artichokes peeled and sliced. Add gradually a quart of clear stock and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Add one pint more of stock, salt and pepper to taste, strain and press the vegetables through a sieve; return to the range to keep warm. Beat together the yelks of two eggs and a pint of milk; add to the soup and allow it to come to the boiling point, but do not boil.
Boil two ounces of macaroni until tender, but not broken ; then throw it into cold water. Take three pints of white stock, put into it the macaroni cut into half-inch lengths and let it boil. Now remove from the fire and add the yelks of three eggs well beaten with a gill of cream and an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese. Return to the stove and allow it to come to the boiling point, stirring constantly.
Boil one head of celery in a pint of water for three-quarters of an hour, then mash it well in the water. Boil a small piece of mace and a large slice of onion in a pint of milk. When boiling add a tablespoonful of flour dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of cold milk; boil ten minutes, add the celery, one tablespoonful butter, salt and pepper to taste, and strain. Return to the fire, add a cup of well beaten cream, heat and serve.
For this you will require the following ingredients : One quart white stock, two ounces butter, one ounce flour, half a pint of cream, four yelks of eggs, one gill green peas, three small carrots, three cucumbers, one teaspoonful fresh tarragon chopped fine, one teaspoonful salt, and one teaspoonful of sugar. Trim the carrots and cucumbers into the shape of very small olives and cook them and the peas until just tender. Put the stock on to boil and add the salt and sugar. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the cream and beat until they are well mixed. Make the butter and flour into a paste with half a gill of cold stock, then pour on enough hot stock to dissolve it; when smoothly mixed stir it into the boiling stock, let it boil and then remove from the fire, and stir in a little at a time the beaten eggs and cream. Return it to the fire ; let it heat well but not boil. Strain into a clean saucepan, add the vegetables, let all get hot together and then put in the tarragon.
 
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