A phyllocactus should bloom when two or three years old ; many of them bloom the first year from cutting, depending on the care which the plant has had. In order to induce blooming, the plants must not be kept too hot in winter, and yet be fully exposed to the sun without changing their position. The well-ripened wood is that which blooms. The cellar is a poor place for them. The idea that a cactus must be seven years old before it blooms is nonsensical.

Phyllocactus latifrons (broad-leaved cactus) "the night-blooming cactus," often erroneously called night-blooming cereus, will, if well grown the first season, bloom the second year. It is undoubtedly one of the very freest blooming cactuses known, if not the very best, and perhaps the easiest plant to manage, as it grows in almost any soil, does not require a greenhouse, and will give more flowers in a season than any other cactus we know. It should never be grown in full sunlight. To any one who wishes to grow only one cactus, we would recommend it. Most of the other phyllocactuses are very desirable as show plants when in bloom, and will reward the grower with a more or less number of flowers every season. A friend sends us a photograph of one that is 40 years old and bears hundreds of flowers every season.

The pink-flowering ones are free bloomers, but the white and yellow ones arc rather shy. I have grown nearly 100 different named varieties of phyllocactuses, but think that they might be cut down to 30 sorts, as many are so near alike.

The few anhaloniums should receive a line or two, as they are so curious and easy to manage. A. prismaticum, which we grow in red gravel, never fails us, although in Europe it is impossible to keep it. A. fissuratum, which we may perhaps be pardoned for christening "The Living Rock," is a great curiosity indeed, unfortunately becoming scarce, as we are informed that they only grow on a very limited area and have there entirely disappeared. A new form of this species has been discovered this year. It is remarkably beautiful and scarce, and has not yet been named. A. Williamsi is also a curious sort, entirely distinct from either of the above.

Another curious and exceedingly rare cactus is Pete-cyphora aselliformis, called the " Hatchet cactus," probably for the reason that the tubercles, when detached from the plant, resemble the head of a hatchet. It is very peculiar. The plant generally looks like a piece of carved wood.

A very handsome opuntia is O. monacantha, var. varie-gata, the joints of which, as shown in Fig. 3, are mottled, splashed and streaked with white, gray and green. When growing, it is particularly remarkable, as the young branches are of a very bright pink and contrast agreeably with the rest of the plant. It is scarce. Another very fine opuntia is O. Emoryi. Its pure white, broad, flat' spines, covering the plant closely, usually attract attention among the duller colors of other opuntias. Large clumps of it, when covered with their large yellow flowers, are particularly fine. (Fig. 4).

Opuntia microdasys is already well known. Its minute tufts of yellow velvet-like spines, which prove so deceiving to the touch, give it a unique appearance. We have been struck with its remarkable free-blooming qualities. Last year we cut off some large single joints, put them in boxes of sand to root, and they almost immediately began to bloom, some joints having as many as nine flowers. This year, after taking off the young joints for propagating, the old ones again began to bloom immediately, excepting, however, those that had not been fully exposed to the sun all winter.

Philadelphia. A. Blanc.

The Propagation Of Cactuses #1

NEW plants are more easily propagated than cactuses. Although they are in some ways slow growers, the process of reproduction in large quantities is not at all 'difficult.

Probably the least used method of increase is by seeds. If the seeds are fresh they will come on easily, and in all cases which have come within my observation, within a comparatively reasonable time. Sow in sandy soil, the sand being rather coarse, and give as much water both before and after germination as would be given any ordinary seeds. They should by no means be kept dry. They should be pricked off in pots or pans, when large enough to handle, still using a coarse sandy soil with plenty of drainage, and a quick growth encouraged in every way. This growth is good in most cases if a fairly warm temperature is maintained and too much dryness is avoided while the plants are growing. February is a good time to sow, and they can be kept growing for nearly twelve months.

In propagating by cuttings, some kinds of cacti present difficulties in obtaining the cuttings ; otherwise this method is simple and probably the easiest of all, particularly where the conveniences are limited. All that is required when cuttings can be obtained is a well drained propagating bed with two or three inches of good sharp sand, and the bed may be large or small, depending on the number of plants required. Our practice is to gather the cuttings a week or two before the new growth begins, any time from February to July or August, and, unless the plants have been kept rather dry, instead of planting immediately we lay them on dry sand for several days, then plant like ordinary cuttings, but in dry sand, and withhold the usual watering. Plant firmly, and give some shade at first. If there is any sign of flagging give a little water, but sparingly until the callus is made and roots begin to form. After this the treatment is easy, not differing from other plants except in using well drained and sandy soil.

I find finely broken potsherds an excellent addition to the soil for the young plants.

Some kinds root much more quickly and easily than others; for instance, with epiphyllum there is no need to keep dry. Plant and treat as you would coleus cuttings.

Some cacti are best propagated by grafting, for the reason that we get a better development of the plant, and that the plant so obtained is better fitted to withstand sudden changes in temperature and in the water supply. Good examples are such sorts as Epiphyllum truncatum and its different varieties, and any of the slender growing kinds like Cereus flagelliformis. Pereskia aculeata is an excellent stock, or a showy and upright growing plant like Cereus triangularis can be used. It is not always necessary to root the stock first. The grafting and the rooting of the cuttings can be done at the same time, even using cuttings ten inches or more in length. My usual method, however, is to grow on a lot of P. aculeata in four-inch pots, the cuttings being put in during January and pots plunged out in summer. If staked and pruned while growing, plants from one to two feet are obtained ready for grafting the following winter. Store in some convenient place until February ; then they are to be cut back to the required length, and the graft inserted. This can be done in almost any of the different ways of grafting, as a wedge graft on the top and a couple of side-grafts. The veneer side-graft described by Mr. Crandall in The American Garden for February last (p. 64) is excellent.

If good growth is maintained during the summer, plants will bloom finely the following winter. The points to observe in grafting are these : Do not cut the scion too thin ; the least possible removal of the epidermis is enough. Do not wound the scion by the tying. We use a cactus thorn, as in the accompanying cut, to secure the graft in place, and then give a firm but not tight tie with broad moist strips of raffia. No wax is needed nor is confined air necessary. The grafted plant is laid on its side, on the bench of a warm house, and a little loose sphagnum is thrown over the grafted parts for a few days. Union takes place within a few weeks, and nothing remains but to encourage a good growth. Fine heads can be obtained in the course of the summer. Care should be taken to keep down the natural growth of the stock.

Fig. 4. Opuntia Emoryi.

Pereskia aculeata can be grown as a rafter plant and grafted when the top of the house is reached. Here we put in side-grafts about eight inches apart the whole length and these can be thinned out wherever the growth is too thick. And care must be taken to support the growing epiphyllum, or the branches will drop off from their own weight. Pereskia Bleo (Fig. J, August Garden) is also a good stock, but is less used than P. aculeata. It is more valuable as an ornamental plant, however, having rose-colored flowers.

Bussey Institution. . B. M. Watson, Jr.