This section is from the "Bulb Gardening" book, by Mary Hampden. Also see Amazon: Bulb Gardening.
Crimson-scarlet and gold.
Deep red.
Purple.
Orange, edged yellow.
Cerise-crimson and white.
Scarlet, black centred.
Wine-red and rose.
Rosy-violet, with white feather markings.
White, flaked with cherry.
Immense white.
Cream and rose blend.
White and lemon striped.
Rich gold.
Apricot-orange.
Purple.
Rose.
Salmony rose.
Orange-scarlet.
Lemon-yellow.
Vermilion-orange and carmine.
Dark violet.
Violet, with yellow centre.
Pale rose.
Lemon shaded with salmon.
Cherry-red.
Scarlet-crimson.
Rosy-violet.
Orange-scarlet.
Deep rose.
White.
Scarlet.
Scarlet with yellow edge.
Dark rose, bordered white.
The following list suggests a few varieties of the long-stemmed, hardy, late-blooming 'Darwins':
Black.
Vermilion.
Blue violet.
Pale rose.
Blood-red.
Heliotrope and rose.
Carmine.
Rose.
Chestnut.
Deep heliotrope.
Bronzy-gold.
Lilac and white.
Rose, with blue and white centre.
Rose and white.
Carmine-violet. Scented.
Heliotrope-shaded salmon-lilac.
Cherry-scarlet and white.
Deep crimson and violet.
Heliotrope-grey and white.
Cochinealried, white centre.
Purple-blue. Expensive.
Maroon-black.
It is noteworthy that Darwin Tulips can be pressed into service for the wild garden, or positions in semi-shade; although not seen at their best except in sunshine they are willing to live and bloom in well-drained ground even beneath tall deciduous trees, the white-and-lilac, heliotrope, and violet, with the black, in the brightest glades, the vermilion employed to cheer banks of the hedgerow, perhaps, with pinks, bronze-golds and carmines edging mossy tracks up hill and down dale.
Tulips can be raised from seed, sown from October to February, in pots in frames. It is best to plunge these to the rims in cinders, so that by moistening this bed occasionally the soil in the pots is just prevented from drying up. As soon as leaves have come and died down for the first time, the tiny bulbs should be taken up, stored for a month or so, then planted in a prepared bed or border in the sunny garden. By setting them in drills or lines, 6 inches row from row, 2 inches bulb from bulb, and fixing a label at either end of the row, the gardener will finish his job neatly, and be able to weed without imperilling the baby Tulips. Next time the bulbs have produced leaves and these have withered, replanting, after a month or two's storing, should give each bulb an inch more room. Any offsets should be broken off and planted separately. So culture continues, with increase of space, for 4 to 7 years. Juvenile blooms may appear in the fourth season, but first blooms are usually self-coloured, and give no idea of what a plant will ultimately bear: streaks, blotches, shadings, edgings, appear in later years, to determine both the character and the value of the blossom.
Another method of culture allows the youthful Tulips to die down and merely be mulched over with fresh compost the first year, not being lifted, dried, and replanted, till after the second leaf production.
Seed is ready to harvest when the capsule containing it is cracking ready to burst. This will be about the middle of July. The pods must be kept in a dry place and not opened till the seeds are required for sowing.
 
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