This section is from the book "A Dictionary Of Modern Gardening", by George William Johnson, David Landreth. Also available from Amazon: The Winter Harvest Handbook: Year Round Vegetable Production Using Deep Organic Techniques and Unheated Greenhouses.
"The pine or fir tribe are sometimes increased by grafting or inarching. It is at present little practised, and when it is so, only as a means of propagating some of the curious varieties of the propersection Pinus, which are the most difficult and uncertain to strike from cuttings. Procure some good healthy young plants of the common kinds, of the same section to which the sort to be increased belongs in pots; if it is to the robust two-leaved section, such as the Pinaster or Stone Pine, procure them for the stocks: if to the Weymouth or Scotch, procure them, but they will take on the common Scotch Fir. If the species or variety belongs to the Spruce or silver tribe, procure such for stocks; if it belongs to the cedar or larch section, the common larch will do, bearing in mind that the species intended to be united should be as nearly related as possible; for although the true Pinus may be worked on a larch stock, they will soon perish. The operation is performed on the current year's growth by cleft grafting, (and always in the leading shoot, shortening several of the side shoots at the time,) or by splitting the stock down the centre after the head is removed sufficiently deep for receiving the scion, which must be cut wedge-shaped, to fit.
"The time of performing the operation is when the young shoots are about half-grown, and are brittle with the stock; the operation is done in the usual way afterwards, by tying, and excluding the air.
"Inarching is another way for increasing the pine tribe, but, like grafting, only suitable for the propagation of curious varieties, and is certainly a more unsightly way than that of cleft-grafting, as the stock and scion hardly ever unite to cover the old heel, when separated from the mother plant.
"This operation may be performed either with the last year's or the preceding year's wood, but the former is by far the quickest in taking; it is best performed about the same time as grafting, but the inarches must not be removed for two years.
"Layering is certainly one of the best modes, where it can be done. Layering should be performed early in the spring, before the plant begins to grow, and in the usual common way, by slightly tonguing and laying the shoots in light sandy soil, pegging them securely down.
"They will require two years to root, but it should be observed, that in layering, the whole plant must be layered, as it is very uncertain if only the bottom branches are so done, as these frequently die after the operation if the upper ones are left on: therefore the whole plant should be bent down, or the head cut off.
"Pines and firs should be planted in the open ground, about the end of April, if they are rare or tender kinds: but if hardy and common ones, the end of February is best.
"The Soil most suitable for them is a light sandy loam, on a dry subsoil; but they will all grow in almost any soil that is not overcharged with water, or too poor, if encouraged at first by mixing a little sandy loam and leaf mould with the common earth, when planting them where they are permanently to remain.
"In planting, the roots should be spread out as much as possible, and kept near the surface, leaving the plant a little elevated on a small mound, if the adjoining ground is level, but if on a declivity, it is of no consequence.
"When planted, they should be well watered, not immediately at the roots, but for a yard or two all round, and then a few spruce fir or other branches should be stuck round, to break off the sun's rays, and the winds; if they are tender they should have a large handglass over them for the first winter, which may remain permanently on during the months of December and January.
"In preparing the compost for them, a little sand should be used, if the soil of the place is tolerably good, but rather stiff; but if poor and light, a little loam and leaf mould must be added; it is by far the best way to accustom the plants to the common soil at once, while they are young, for if the ground is made good for their reception only, they will grow vigorously and rapid, and as soon as they exhaust the prepared soil, they become stunted, and frequently die prematurely.
"In protecting the tender kinds, a single mat covering at a sufficient distance will keep most of them from injury; but much damage is done to the plants by not being able to remove the covering early in the spring.
"The covering should be constructed so that the top can be removed during: the day time, and replaced at night, which hardens the plants, and at the same time protects them from the effects of the late spring frosts, which destroy the young shoots, especially of Web-biana, and other silver firs.
"In pruning there is little to be done except to cut away all dead branches, and to protect the leader." - Gard. Chron.
 
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