Crops yill now be advancing, and will require constant attention to get the necessary work done at the proper time. Thinning, hoeing, and weeding will keep the labour-power at high pressure. In other departments of gardening so much requires to be executed without delay that it is difficult to keep pace with increasing duties. Artichokes (Globe) should now be examined to ascertain what amount of injury has been done by the late severe winter; and where suckers have grown enough to allow their being taken off for a fresh plantation, well-dug and properly-manured ground should be prepared and planted with them, in rows three feet apart, and as much between the plants. We prefer planting a portion each season, and never allow the old stools to remain many years on the same ground. Asparagus will now be in lull bearing, and on properly-drained land good soakings of manure-water may be given: guano and a little salt suit well for this purpose. Beans and Peas may be sown at least twice during the month: stake Peas and mulch them; top Beans to induce them to pod; sow French Beans and Scarlet-runners twice in the month, - they do well in deep rich soil. Beet may now be sown for main crop.

Well-broken mellow soil, in which is a dash of sand, gives clean-grown, tender Beet, Very poor and rich soils are to be avoided - tough stringy Beet is useless. More Broccoli may be sown, and the plants which are up in the rows should be thinned and transplanted preparatory to plantiug out in open ground.

Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Kale, Parsley, Leeks, Onions (the last named thickly on poor hard ground for pickling), may all be sown for late planting. When late Potatoes are cleared off ground, it is well to have plenty to fill up the space. When ground becomes vacant in end of summer and during autumn, it should be prepared, sown, and planted without delay. Planting thickly such crops as Kale, Savoys, and Brussels Sprouts makes provision for a good supply of greens during spring; and never were such plantations more valuable than during the past season. The loss of Broccoli and the wholesale destruction of other crops, by the long severe winter, are lessons which will not be unnoticed. Kale sprouts and young Savoy tops have been of much value to us. The whole of the Cabbage left to sprout were entirely destroyed, and such a loss was the greatest which we sustained, these being in great request, while young Cabbage are not valued in any shape. While raising such crops care should be exercised to prevent the young plants in the seed - beds from being drawn up weakly: the rows should be thinned, taking first the larger ones, allowing the smaller ones to gain strength. Carrots may yet be sown for a main crop.

This crop often suffers from grubs and other vermin, and it is well to sow Shorthorn frequently, which will in a measure meet the demand. Lettuce should now be sown in small quantities every week or ten days, they run so quickly to seed. It is well to prepare ground thoroughly for them by giving plenty of rotten manure - especially from a cow-yard. Shady positions are most suitable during summer. The plants may be thinned to 9 inches apart, and the thinnings planted out behind a hedge or fence; they will give a succession. Endive for a chance crop may be sown at end of month. Leeks may be thinned and planted as soon as they are about 6 inches high: extra rich land should be provided for them if fine quality is desired. Potatoes now up and growing may have soil drawn over their tops to ward off frost: if the tops have come up very thickly they may be thinned. The tubers will be larger and of finer quality. Spinach, small Salads, Turnips, and Radishes should be sown every week in small quantities: by this practice there need be no failures. Salsafy, Chicory, and Scorzonera should now be sown and treated like Carrots. Attention to thinning should not be forgotten till it is late enough to do mischief.

Carrots, Beet, Parsnips, Onions, Turnips, Spinach, Parsley, will all require speedy attention; better that the crops soould be too thin than too thick. Th re is much mischief often done by the latter, especially when sowing has been done thickly, an evil the inexperienced are liable to fall into. Rich ground demands a greater width between the crops. Keep the hoe at work wherever it can be used. The pronged hoe in good hands does capital service; but to use so as to pull up young rootlets is an evil to be avoided. To keep weeds down a continued war must be waged against them. Leaving them to get into size and depending on eradicating them is a practice which will always secure abundance of "native plants " in every garden. Among such crops as Seakale, Horse-radish, Rhubarb, and other permanent roots, neglect of weeds is often noticeable; but the cheapest and most effectual way of keeping a garden in order is to go over it frequently from end to end. These roots just named may yet be planted if there should be a scarcity of them. Seakale and Horseradish may be planted on deeply-trenched ground and well manured: pieces about 2 or 3 inches long dibbled in answers well; but Horseradish may be put in deeply and allowed to grow up strongly, then trenched out for use.

Rhubarb divided up into nice crowns and well planted will do well this year and form fine roots: mulching is of much value to these roots. Cucumbers and Vegetable-marrows may be planted out about the end of month on their ridges, using turfy loam to start them. Haud-lights, protectors, cloches, or frames should be used till the plants are in full growth. They may then be mulched and carefully thinned, and watered with tepid water as they require it. Chillies, Capsicums, Tomatoes, and all tender plants raised in heat, should now he hardened off and planted in favoured positions. Prick out and plant Celery as they are fit. M. T.