The Eucharis amazonica is one of those plants which amply repay all the attention bestowed upon them. When in bloom, who does not admire their snow-white flowers, contrasting so well with the fine glaucous foliage when in good health? One of its greatest recommendations is, that it can be had in flower at any time by a little forethought and attention to its growth. We find them very useful to come in about Christmas and the spring months. Now is a good time to look them over and see if any require fresh potting; if so, let it be done at once, carefully shaking out the bulbs, as the roots are easily broken off. Arrange the bulbs according to their sizes, putting the large ones into their flowering-pots at once, but not too many bulbs of the largest size in one pot; if too close together, the foliage has not room to fully develop, and the flowers suffer. The smaller ones, being put into small pots, will require a shift whenever the roots appear at the side of the pots. This lot can be grown on in autumn - a month or six weeks later than the large ones - and will make a fine succession of bloom the following spring.

We find a good fibry loam, chopped up rather rough, with a good quantity of old mushroom-dung sifted through a fine sieve, with a sprinkling of silver-sand well mixed, suits them well. In potting, great care should be taken to have the pots well drained, as they are very impatient of stagnant water, although, when growing, they delight in plenty of moisture both at the roots and in the atmosphere. After potting, they should be placed where they can have a temperature of from 65° to 70° at night, with a rise of 16° by day. They are all the better of a little shade on bright days. After they are in full growth a little manure-water may be given with advantage; and if a little soot is mixed with the above water, it gives the foliage a brighter appearance. Grow them on in this temperature until about the middle or end of September - the smaller bulbs later, as recommended before - and gradually harden them off until they can stand in a temperature of from 50° to 55°. If there is not much room at command, lay them on their sides under a stage where they can have the benefit of light. Here they may remain for about six weeks, giving little or no water, but syringing them well every day.

When wanted to start, let them be taken to the potting-bench, examine the drainage, give them a rich top-dressing: if found to be rather dry, place them in a bucket of tepid water until the ball is thoroughly wet. By plunging the pots in a bottom-heat of 80°, with top-heat at from 60° to 65°, attending to them well with water, both at the roots and syringing frequently through the day, if properly treated before, they will soon begin to throw up their flower-stems. We have had plants in bloom which stood for four and five weeks in an entrance-hall, in the month of January.