Last autumn, when our Broccoli were looking their best, I decided to send a few notes to the 'Gardener' on the subject when the time came round again for their culture; and now that it is here, I am almost ashamed of my decision, as all the Broccoli crops in the country have undergone a wonderful transformation since last autumn. As a rule, they have failed to such an extent that many may be considering whether to grow them again or not. I more than suspect that the last failure is not the first during the last three years, and we all know that repeated loss is not encouraging to further trial; but I think we must try and try again with the Broccoli yet. In ordinary winters they are such an excellent vegetable that nothing so good could be substituted for them, and the hope is great that we will be more fortunate in the weather next time our winter and spring Broccoli are due. Considering the past, too, it has not been without its advantages, as it has proved very markedly which kinds we may place most reliance on at such times; and the warning should not be trifled with, but let every one confine his sorts to those which have resisted the severe weather the best, as this is more likely to be the means of securing a crop than selecting varieties at random, or growing those which have previously proved most tender.

Some seasons we have grown more than a dozen sorts here, but several of them possessed so little merit that we have reduced them to about four kinds or so. First and foremost comes Veitch's Self Protecting Autumn Variety, which conies into use in November and December, and is an excellent sort for succeeding Veitch's Autumn Cauliflower, which is closely followed by Osborn's Winter White, which in its turn is followed by Carter's Mammoth Spring White; and this is finally succeeded by Sutton's Late Queen, which comes in from the middle of April until the end of May. This variety is one of the hardiest of all Broccoli, and it, together with the first-named, are our favourites in this section of vegetables, and should be included in all Broccoli lists. In most cases Broccoli seed will have been sown by this time. Where all has not been put in, no time should now be lost in completing the operation. The seed is best sown in beds broadcast, but not too thick. Our beds for all plants of the kind are generally made on one of the kitchen-garden borders, from 12 to 20 feet in width. If a very small quantity is sown, it may be put into a drill along the bottom of a wall, or any such place.

Under such a system, the drill may be from 1 to 2 inches deep; but the seed should not be covered quite so much as this, whether in drills or broadcast. Birds and slugs are always eager to destroy the young plants when in a small state, and it is sometimes necessary to put a piece of net over the seed immediately after sowing to keep birds off; and other pests may generally be kept away by sprinkling a little soot and lime over the surface. When once the plants are fairly through the ground, they will push on rapidly; and if the seed was sown thick, and germinated well, they will be too crowded to remain in the seed-ground until finally planted. In such cases they should be carefully thinned out as soon as they have formed two or three rough leaves, and dibbled into some good piece of ground, from 3 to 4 inches apart. This transplanting may cause them to fall a little behind those in the seed-bed in growth, but they will form a succession, and all will be converted into sturdy healthy plants by the operation.

Some may be ready for planting in their permanent quarters by the end of May, others during June; and those which were given plenty of room at transplanting time may be retained until July, if necessary, to fill up space then rendered vacant by removing other early crops.

The time of sowing or planting does not influence the time of heading very much. This is entirely guided by variety. For instance, were Veitch's and Sutton's varieties, recommended above, both sown on the same day in April, the former would head in November, the latter five months afterwards. I merely state this simple fact, as the question is frequently asked by amateurs how Broccoli are got in for such a time in succession. The extent of most kitchen-gardens is barely sufficient to produce all that is required from them, by only taking one crop off the ground in the year. Two crops, and sometimes three, are not too many in some cases; and in such gardens Broccoli has seldom a piece of ground set apart for it exclusively. A spring crop must generally come off the ground before the Broccoli are planted; and as it is the most economical way, there is no reason why it should not be so. At the present time we have a number of Sutton's Queen Broccoli on land that was a crop of Peas last July, and by that month again the same piece of ground will contain an advanced crop of Turnips. If fine large heads are desired, the plants must not be grown too closely together; besides, close planting has also a great tendency to make the plants tender - a condition to be strictly avoided in the case of all winter and spring plants.

These cannot be grown too hardy. Wide planting and an exposed situation are the rules to follow to secure this. Early autumn kinds may be grown 18 inches apart each way; later sorts, 2 feet and 30 inches. Where large quantities are wanted, good breadths should be planted; but where only a few heads weekly are all that is required, a few rows may keep up the supply - and for convenience these may be planted in any little spare strip of ground. As late sorts remain a long time on the ground, they should not be planted in the centre quarters, which are likely to be wanted early; but when they are kept at the ends of the quarters they are seldom in the way of anything. Where the main crop of Potatoes are planted 30 inches or so between the rows, a row of Broccoli may sometimes be planted between each; and when the Potatoes are lifted in autumn, the Broccoli are left in full possession for the winter. We practise this kind of double-cropping a good deal, and find it answer well. Most of our Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, etc., are planted between Potatoes. Unless fairly good-sized Broccoli plants are secured before growth ceases, the heads will not be large. For this reason the ground for this crop should be on the rich side.

They require plenty of manure put into the ground at the time of planting, or some little time previously. At the present time we are just getting our largest Broccoli quarter ready. The subsoil is very retentive, and to improve this it is being dug two spades deep. Decayed leaves and suchlike are being put well down to the bottom; and before the crop is planted a coating of half-decayed cow-dung will be forked close under the surface. Should the winter not prove all the worse, a fine crop may be depended on from this piece, or any other that is prepared in the same way. We have transferred the plants from the seed - bed when they were from 2 to 8 inches high, and both succeeded; but unless great care is taken with the smaller size, slugs are very apt to destroy them. Large plants are not so easily injured. Those who can spare the time to lift the young plants with balls of earth to their roots, and plant with a trowel, will find this a better plan than using a dibble, especially in dry weather, as they do not sustain such a check. Showery weather or a wet day is the best time to plant Broccoli. When the atmosphere and soil is very dry, one good watering immediately after planting helps greatly to sustain the plant until fresh growth begins.

As most kinds of Broccoli are inclined to become rather long in the stem and heavy in the head, as soon as they are about a foot high a quantity of earth should be drawn to their stems with the drag-hoe. This plan must be followed on all very exposed spots, and sometimes a second earthing may have to be done when they are half-grown. Although some Broccoli plants will bear a great amount of frost, the heads, when once formed, are most easily injured by it; and if not protected, a few degrees will make them worthless. From November onwards, as soon as the heads are seen to be forming, all the side-leaves should be gathered up over the head, and have their ends tied just above it with a piece of matting or small willow. When more heads are ready for cutting than are wanted, the plants should be taken up altogether, a piece of cord tied round the stem, and then hung up head-downwards in a cool shed. This is the best way of keeping Broccoli : we have kept heads in perfectly good condition for a month in this way. Just before severe weather every head formed should be treated in this way.

Where it is feared that any spell of severe weather will injure plants which are intended for later supplies, every one of them should be taken up by the roots and laid in sideways, with their heads facing the north. All plants treated in this way during the past winter have, as a rule, suffered very much less from the weather than those having no such attention.

J. Muir. Margam.