Among flowering greenhouse-plants this Statice must take rank among the foremost, both as an ornamental plant and for the profusion and enduring quality of its flowers, as they may be said to be almost everlasting. And yet, somehow, the plant is not nearly so much cultivated as its sterling merits deserve. A good, well-bloomed specimen is a sight not easily forgotten. Yet how seldom do we see what may be called a good specimen, or even in how few places do we find it grown at all. This cannot arise from any very great difficulty in the cultivation of it, as it is no more difficult to manage than the majority of greenhouse plants. As an exhibition plant, when well grown, few things are more telling in a collection.

We believe that many growers err in coddling it too much, by growing it in heat at certain stages of its growth. A moderate heat for a short time will not do any harm, but it thrives best under cool treatment. When thoroughly established, it delights in rich feeding, and well repays any extra care bestowed upon it. Established plants should never be subjected to a higher temperature than about 50° of fire-heat: of course in summer the coolest structures will be much hotter than this, but then there will be air given in proportion.

This Statice is propagated by cuttings, which should be taken off, if practicable, with a heel, early in spring. They should be potted up singly at once in thumb-pots in a mixture of peat rubbed through a fine sieve and sharp silver sand in equal proportions. Make a hole with the finger, put in the cutting with some pure sand about it, then press all firmly in, water through a fine rose, and plunge the pots up to the rim in a bottom-heat of between 80° and 90°. If they can be covered with a bell-glass for a time so much the better, as it will tend to hasten the rooting process. When they are well rooted, and before getting matted in the pots, they must be shifted into 4-inch pots, using the soil in a rougher state, and a little good fibry loam along with it. The pots would be all the better of being half-plunged in the hotbed until they begin to take to the fresh soil, when they may be stood on the surface of the bed, and air admitted in moderate quantities at first, so as to gradually harden them off, and render them fit to stand a cooler temperature than they have been enjoying.

About the beginning of June they will have been sufficiently hardened off to stand in a cold pit or frame: if in the latter, see that a good bed of ashes be under them, or set them up on inverted pots, so as to prevent worms from finding their way into them, as they are very injurious to them when they do get in. They will be all the better of a slight sprinkling with water overhead occasionally, and aired freely during the day, at the same time avoiding draughts.

About the middle of August they may want a shift into larger pots, which may be 6-inch ones, and this will be quite large enough for them the first year. The same kind of soil to be used, only rougher, and some good old cow-dung may be incorporated with it, and a little put over the crocks as well. Keep the flower-stems picked off as they appear, so that all the energies of the plant may be directed towards making a good foundation for the future specimen. They must be carefully watched in regard to watering, so that they may not suffer for lack of it, else they will soon be visited by their two great enemies - spider and thrips. On the other hand, care must be taken that they are not over-watered, so as to render the soil sour or sodden, else they will soon get into bad health; and, like many other plants, it is easier to put them into this state than to resuscitate them when once they have fallen into ill health. An ordinary greenhouse is the best place in which to winter them. They must be kept gently on the move, not allowed to rest by allowing them to become dry; but water may be more sparingly applied during the dull winter months, and fresh air admitted on every favourable opportunity.

During the second and succeeding years, if large plants are wanted, they must be encouraged as much as possible. They will be ready for a shift into 8- or 9-inch pots early in February. A liberal allowance of old cow-dung may be mixed with the soil, and a layer of it put over the crocks. Continue to shift them as they require it, and in potting press the soil pretty firmly about the ball.

Unless for very large specimens, 11- or 12-inch pots are large enough for handling, and a good large plant can be grown in this size of pot. The stamina of the plants must be kept up by surface-dressings of old cow manure and waterings of liquid manure. Of course these need not be applied until the pots are well filled with roots; and with care and proper attention, plants may be kept in good health in these same pots for many years. It is not absolutely essential that peat should form the chief part of the compost, as they will thrive equally well in loam, provided it be good and have plenty of fibre in it. A few pieces of charcoal will be an advantage in helping to keep the soil open and sweet. Always make sure that the drainage is in good working order and the plants kept clean. These remarks have been confined to the Statice profusa, but they apply equally to the other varieties. It is seldom, however, that we see more than it and Holfordii grown. J. G.