Peas for coming in the earliest out of doors are generally sown as soon in the year as the state of the soil will admit; but in late districts, or when the soil is heavy or wet, or both, it is of little use putting the seeds in the soil too early in the season, as they are liable to rot. In favoured localities, especially on light dry soil, Peas are often enough sown in November, and when the winter proves favourable, they come on in advance of those sown in spring. We do not advise amateurs generally to sow in autumn, as much trouble is necessary to bring them through the winter, and as likely as not the result will be disappointing. However, those who are anxious to have them as early as possible may make one sowing of a hardy sort, such as Sutton's Ringleader, about the middle of November, and another early in January. Those whose space is limited had better wait until well into February, as the chances are that a full crop will be the result, which is more than can be looked for from earlier sowings. To keep up a succession, we find a good plan is to sow at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks, or, in fact, just as one sowing makes its appearance we sow another, in quantities according to the requirements of the household.

In dry summer weather it is a good plan to draw good deep drills and soak them with water before sowing, otherwise the seed may fail to germinate, or germinate unsatisfactorily. In favoured localities it is customary to sow as late as the middle of June for the purpose of prolonging the season as much as possible. These must be regarded merely as chance crops in the great majority of northern gardens; and we do not advise the ordinary amateur to continue sowing after the middle of May - and in very cold late districts, the 1st of May - unless there is plenty of ground and an anxiety to have Peas as late as possible.

A deep loamy soil suits the Pea best; but good crops may be raised in any garden-soil from light sand to heavy clay. They require to be sown on different places yearly, as they will do very badly if sown repeatedly on the same spot, and a proper rotation of crops will enable the grower to do this without any special forethought. The best crops are invariably raised on fresh land, and the best application that can be made on heavily-manured garden ground which has been long under garden cultivation, is fresh virgin loam. Where it is possible to get fresh soil, it is always worth while to dig out trenches 2 feet wide and as many deep, and fill them with it, adding manure if this is necessary. We of course refer to old gardens, where this crop is not always satisfactory. Seasons like the past teach us that Peas often suffer for want of water. In dry soils their growth has been tremendous, while in ordinary seasons they are very often stinted on such soils. To counteract the evil effects of drought as much as possible, we have dug trenches, as if for Celery, and put 6 inches of manure in the bottom, and when filling in the soil have left the centre of the trench low, so that when water was applied the Peas got the benefit of it, instead of its running away somewhere else, as it is apt to do on soil sloping away from the rows and trodden water-tight; and the difference between Peas treated so and in the ordinary way, in dry seasons, was very great.

Our readers must have noticed, when digging ground on which Peas have grown, that the soil is so dry that long after the Peas have been removed the soil is still impervious to water. This proves the necessity of floodings of water to the Pea in dry seasons if really good Peas in good quantity be wanted. When this is done, or even if it cannot be done, great benefit will follow a thick mulch of sappy manure by the sides of the rows - or failing that, short grass or anything that will check evaporation.

Peas are sometimes sown in quarters by themselves, but we think it a much more economical plan to sow them in single rows among other vegetables. When this is done, sun and air have freer access to every part of the plants, and the result is a much greater amount of produce from a given length of row. In exposed gardens, when thus sown in rows and securely staked, the rows of Peas assist other crops by means of the shelter they afford. By sowing between other crops there is scarcely any difficulty, in even the smallest garden, in affording them a fresh position, and, therefore, new soil annually. The mistake should not be made - too common among amateurs - of planting other crops to within a foot or so of the rows of the Peas. Three feet from the row of Peas to the nearest row of other vegetables is little enough space, but 6 inches may be subtracted from the windward sides of the rows and added to the leeward side, where the rows are exposed. In our case the rows are all blown eastward. In drawing the drills, stretch the line over the ground and draw them the full breadth of a common draw-hoe, from 2 to 3 inches deep, and scatter the Peas evenly at the rate of 1 lb. of Peas to 30 feet of row of the small kinds, and 36 feet of the larger kinds.

When 3 inches high, draw a little earth to them, and stake them with stakes according to the height of the variety, which is generally a foot or so more than that given in catalogues, when treated liberally as we have hinted at.