To say that the Tuberose is everybody's flower in winter would be exceeding the mark, although its cultivation is simple and the price of the bulbs exceedingly low. It is therefore surprising that they are not more generally cultivated where the Rose, the Gardenia, and the Eucharis find a home, and are cherished by the lovers of the chaste and beautiful amongst winter flowers. They are of the purest white - a colour which is in great demand in winter - and are sweet-smelling as well. Their presence in bridal or other bouquets, or as button-hole bouquets for gentlemen, renders them an acquisition, and is certain to enhance the estimate of their associates in whatever form they are employed. A year ago I invested a small sum in the purchase of these bulbs, and they have done good service for some time past in furnishing little dainty flowers for special occasions. The time of potting should be regulated according to the time they are wanted in flower and perhaps I should also remark that they are rather slow in starting into growth without a little excitement at the root, so that it is a simple matter to postpone the period of flowering to almost any period.

Bulbs intended to flower next winter should be purchased at once, and potted up at intervals in the same way that we manage to bring in a succession of Hyacinths or Tulips. Any time after next January will be early enough to pot up the latest batch, which may be flowered in pots from 4 to 5 inches in diameter. The pots should be cleaned and carefully crocked in such a way that there will be no danger of the drainage getting stopped at any stage of growth. In potting take a good mellow rich loam, such as is used for Hyacinths, with a dash of coarse sand mixed with it; press the soil in the bottom of the pots moderately firm, and place a little sand under the base of each bulb as a preservative against disease during the months of comparative inaction, which must necessarily take place, in order to have the flowers at the time required. The bulbs are placed at from one-half to two-thirds of their depth in the soil, and when the operation of potting is performed, they will require to be plunged in sand or other material up to the rim of the pot, with a shallow covering of sand laid over the surface of the pots as well.

I should have added, with reference to potting, that the soil should be in a thoroughly healthy state, but rather on the moist side the object of plunging and covering' the surface of the soil in the pots being to prevent any loss of moisture by evaporation, and thus avoid the necessity of giving water before actual growth commences. As before remarked, the bulbs are slow to start into growth without the assistance of a little bottom-heat ; and where such is the case a few of the bulbs may be pushed along about the beginning of May, merely giving them a start and hardening them off to stand in cold pits or frames during the warmest part of the summer. By dividing the stock into two or three lots, and by advancing or retarding their condition as appearance and circumstances may suggest, a few of those choice flowers may be attained till far on in the winter; but they are much more difficult to manage after September than at any time previous, on account of their dislike to a cold or damp climate. Even at a temperature at 50° they are subject to damp off at the base of the flower-stem if they are not prudently attended to with water; and the flowers also decay if the atmospheric conditions are not regulated and kept on the dry side before the house is closed up for the day.

To sum up briefly, a temperature of 60°, and a dry atmosphere with a sparing supply of water at the root, are necessary conditions to insure a supply of flowers in November and December months. Cultivator.