In many amateurs' gardens late peas are valued. It is essential that they be planted in the coolest part of the ground. The pea is a cool country plant, and when it has to grow in warm weather it mildews. The Marrowfat class are usually employed for late crops. They need support. All peas grow better and produce more when grown to stakes. Bush beans may be also sown for late crops. A very deep rich soil is necessary to tender, crisp pods. The Lima bean will now be growing rapidly. It is time well spent to tie them to the poles as they grow. The poles should not be too high - about eight feet is enough. They commence to bear freely only when the top of the pole is reached.

The lettuce is another cool country plant. It can only be grown well in hot weather when in very rich and cool soil. For winter use, beets are occasionally sown now, and also cucumbers for pickling purposes; but not often; and, at any rate, it must be attended to early in the month. Tomatoes trained to stakes give the sweetest fruit, and remain in bearing the longest; but many cultivators, who grow for size and quantity only, believe they have the best results when growing them on the level ground. Celery is the chief crop requiring attention. The great point is to get short thick-growing varieties, as the long kinds require so much more labor to blanch. There are now a number of new candidates, and people will try these varieties as they try new fruits. After so many trials with different ways of growing them, those who have their own gardens - amateurs, for whom we write - find that the old plan of sinking the plants in shallow pits is about the best. Trenches are dug about six inches deep, and three or four inches of manure then dug in, of which cow-manure is the best. They can be watered better this way in dry weather, when in these trenches, and it is so much easier to fill the earth about them for blanching purposes than when grown on the level surface.

Soap-suds, as well as salt in moderate doses, is usually a wonderful special fertilizer for the celery plant.

Late cabbage is often planted in gardens between rows of potatoes, where it is an object to save space. Some fancy that the cabbage is better preserved in this way from the cabbage-fly, which, they say, prefers the potato; but on this point we are not sure. We do not think the cabbage does quite as well as when it has the whole ground to itself; but of course a double crop could not be expected to be quite so fine.

In the fruit garden there is little to be done at this season, either in the North or the South, if our instructions have been from time to time carefully attended to. Some like to make new beds of strawberries in the autumn, and the further we get south the more is this a necessity, and not a choice. But we should be careful in getting young plants in selecting from those which have healthy green foliage, and not covered by brown fungus spots. Fungus may or may not be a cause of disease; one thing is certain, whenever fungus grows on a plant its vital power soon will be exhausted if not already.

From the extent to which we find the practice prevails among amateurs, we may also hint here tnat it is very bad practice to pick off the leaves of grape vines with the idea that the fruit will ripen better therefor. Sometimes there are too many leaves. The growth is too thick; one smothers the other. In this case we may thin out the shoots, leaves and all, but never the leaves alone.

In many cases, should the autumn prove dry, it will be an advantage to water small fruits if water be convenient or cheap to hand. Drying off used to be thought a good thing - but like so many old notions, we find it has its extravagancies. The reason why raspberries, blackberries, and such things often winter kill is not because of late growths, but that they were half killed by premature drying.