Some people advocate the pruning of ornamental trees in summer when they require it, for the reason that the wound seems to heal over without any injury to the tree. This is in a great measure correct. When large branches are cut in the spring the moisture oozesfrom the wound, and those minute funguses that prey on decayed or dead vegetation, get a start where moisture exists, and the wound is very soon on the high road to destruction. Hollow trees come more often from such wounds than from any other cause. In summer the leaves take all the sap, and the exposed surface becomes dry and hard. There is nothing more than a solid knot over which the bark eventually grows and entirely heals the wound. But there are counter-objections. The leaves are the life of a tree. A branch has to be cut close to the trunk in order to heal at all, because the sap which makes the new wood has to be prepared by the action of the leaves. Cutting away large masses of foliage weakens the vital power of trees. For instance, near where we are writing a Honey Locust hedge was planted about six years ago. These have been annually summer pruned, as all respectable hedge plants expect to be. The stems of these plants are about three inches in circumference now.

But one in the hedge was suffered to grow up as a tree. It has never been summer pruned.

The stem is eighteen inches in circumference. Any one who has noticed how hedges, annually pruned, keep small stems, will understand how summer pruning weakens a tree. Therefore, where rapid growth is desired, summer pruning to any great extent should not be practiced. But a little, judiciously done, will often be a greater benefit at this season than at any other, especially when some good form is desirable for the specimen. We can tell much better how to direct the branches of a tree in the growing season than when the leaves are off. There has been great progress in this kind of knowledge of late years.

In nothing has progress in gardening been better indicated than in the use of the pruning knife on evergreens. Up to the existence of the Gardeners' Monthly, one might prune any trees except evergreens. Few articles ever took the public more by surprise, than our first paper showing that pruning benefited these plants. Now it is generally practiced, and it is believed to be followed with more striking results than when used on deciduous trees. In transplanting evergreens of all kinds from the woods, the best way to save their lives, is to cut them half back with a hedge shears, and when any come from the nurseries with bad roots, or roots which have accidentally got dry, a severe cutting back will save them. And then if we have an unsightly evergreen, - a one sided, or sparsely clothed evergreen, - if it is cut back considerably it will push out again green all over, and make a nice tree. It must be carefully remembered, however, that in all these cases the leading shoot must be cut away also, or the side branches will not come out well. An idea prevails that a new leading shoot will not come out on the pine family after one has lost its first.

But this is a mistake; sometimes they will not show a disposition to do so, side shoots near the leader's place will seem to put in a rival claim for the leadership the following year, but if these are then cut away they will not make a second attempt, and the real leader will then push on into its path of destiny.

The Scotch pine and the Chinese arborvitae, are two plants which derive wonderful benefit from the pruning knife. Both these are very liable to get ragged when left entirely to their natural inclinations, but grow with a beautiful compact luxuriance under the occasional application of the knife. Indeed the Scotch pine with judicious pruning makes one of the most beautiful ornaments of the lawn and pleasure ground. It can be made to take many odd forms; one of the most picturesque is obtained by cutting off its head about ten feet high, and never let another leader grow. The side branches are all cut away except the upper tier, these spread then outwardly, - not exactly creeping, but flowing forward in the most luxurious green imaginable, making a much prettier arbor than any weeping tree we ever saw.

Increased attention has been given the Rhododendron and Azalea the few past seasons, as they prove to be much more easy to manage than people formerly thought. It is found to be a mistake that they need shade. It is only a cool soil they require. This is made by deepening it, and adding to it material which will keep it open and porous at all seasons. We accomplish this by adding fine brushwood with the heavy clay loam. Those who have them in good growing order should take care to keep them in good health by occasional top-dressing. This they enjoy, as the little hair-like roots fancy feeding in cool places, near the surface.

Evergreen hedges will require attention as they grow. Where the height desired has been attained the top and strong growths should be cut back while they are still watery. The side shoots need not be touched till past midsummer. All wise people now employ the conical shape for hedges. In cutting back the top growth at this season, the conical form can still be preserved.

All those who have set out trees the past spring, should take the first chance of a dry spell to loosen the soil deeply about them with a fork, and immediately after beat it down hard again with the heel, or some better "clod-crusher." Innumerable lives of trees may be saved by this simple practice.

Rare roses are increased by layers, buds and cuttings; layers are made of the strong growths as soon as the wood gets a little hard; a slit is cut in the upper side of the shoot, to be layered, and it is bent down into rich soil. Everything roots sooner in rich than in poor soil. The cut used to be made on the under side, but they are then liable to break on bending down. Budding is done by taking out a piece of bark with an eye, and inserting it under the bark of another kind and then tied in. It is nice amusement for ladies, and any florist will explain the process to ■ those who do not know. Budded roses are not very popular owing to the tendency of the kinds used for stocks to throw up suckers, which, unless the intelligence of the grower is equal to keeping them off, in the end kills the kinds budded on them. Rose cuttings are generally easily raised by those who know little about it. In proportion as one becomes a skilful florist, the failures to strike rose cuttings increase. Almost every one who puts in a few " slips " of half ripe wood into a pot of earth, and sets the pot under a shady fence, succeeds; but as soon as he or she knows " all about it," they can't strike roses.

Here at least is an encouragement to the new beginner.