We have now reached a season when, more than another, work is in order, and we have to put in practice the lessons of the year. We shall therefore content ourselves with noting briefly things not so much to be learned as to be remembered.

Plant life is a battle - a struggle with the elements which it strives to conquer. To do this it requires food. The successful planter is one who does not forget this. Thousands of plants live through hot dry summers, and cold hard winters, because they have more food than those which die. Grass, herbaceous plants, bedding flowers, trees, and shrubs, - all must have manure sometimes, as well as garden vegetables.

Deep soil holds moisture in summer. A dry hard soil rapidly parts with moisture. Make garden soil deep and open if you would have lawns and trees resist drouth.

Water must not remain long around roots when growing, or they smother from want of air. In clay soils if we deepen the soil we sometimes make the matter worse. Like a well it holds water. Water must pass rapidly in the open ground, as in a flower-pot. So, if you deepen soil see that it is also underdrained.

Sometimes it is desirable to plant andmakegarden where the ground cannot be underdrained. Then elevate the soil so that rain will roll off and pass away. Trees that do not care to grow in swamps have been made to grow well by throwing up the earth a little, on which to plant, so that surplus water should pass through easily.

Grass wants water and food as well as trees - but the roots of plants only extend in proportion to their branches. An Osage Orange tree 30 feet high, will extend its roots 30 feet or more from the trunk. But if the Osage is cut every year so that it does not extend more than five or ten feet, the roots are limited in proportion. So with grass; a lawn with the grass suffered to grow a foot or more in height will send roots down a foot deep, and dry and rob the earth proportionately, but if kept mown to less than an inch, the roots will drain the ground to only a proportionate depth. Therefore short grass under lawn trees may be a benefit by keeping the surface cool, and not drying the ground materially - but long grass and rare trees will fight and quarrel over the food, and neither rest satisfied.

In planting, set early as possible. Rootlets will grow till frost stops them. A newly set tree wants all the rootlets it can get. No matter how well we may work the earth in about the rootlets, there will be many spaces where earth does not touch. But the growing rootlet pushes in, and the earth is in contact over its whole surface.

After earth has been perfectly filled in the spaces, ramming is a great benefit. It presses the earth in so that it must touch the roots. It is best to ram such a tree as if it were a post. But if the earth be not well worked in among the roots, ramming may be an injury.

Pruning out some of the branches is often a benefit. It lessens the evaporation till the roots get enough moisture to supply the waste.

Watering trees at transplanting is rarely a benefit. In most cases it is an injury, as the earth is taken away from the under surface of the roots by the sinking of the water in the soil.

Evergreens planted in exposed places are benefitted by screens from the wind where they are likely to Suffer. A rare evergreen may often be much helped by having a bottomless barrel placed around it. It is wind not frost that is the great enemy to evergreens.

Small things as well as large do better planted in fall, if they can be protected from being drawn out by frost.

Plants draw out by frost, because they are lighter than the thawed earth. The earth and that which is in it expands - rises - by frost; when it thaws the heaviest sinks first, and the plant gets left. Any light covering above the plant that will keep it pressed down when the thaw comes, is therefore a guard against thawing out.

Roses, and many similar plants that are half hardy, die in winter only because their juices dry out. Bent down and covered with earth the evaporation is prevented, and the plants successfully protected.

Hyacinths and Tulips may be set out in the beds devoted to summer-flowering bedding-plants, as they will, in a great measure, be out of flower before the bedding-time comes around, when they can be either taken up and transplanted to an out-of-the-way-place to ripen, or the bedding-plants can be set in between where the bulbs grow, without either much interfering with the success of the otner. As a manure for these bulbs, nothing has yet been found superior to well-decayed, sandy cow-manure; but where this is not conveniently at hand, well decomposed surface-soil from a wood will do as well.

Herbaceous hardy border flowers are often propagated in the fall by dividing the roots; but, unless it is convenient to protect the newly-made plants through the winter, it is better to defer this till spring, as the frost draws out of the ground and destroys many. Where it is now resorted to, a thick mulching of leaves or litter should be placed over the young stock when transplanted.

Few things are more valued in winter than a bunch of Sweet Violets. A lew may now be potted, and they will flower in the window towards spring; or a small bed of them may be in a frame, which should be protected by a mat from severe frost. To have Pansies flower early and profusely in spring, they may be planted out in a frame as recommended for the Violet.

Many kinds of hardy annuals flower much better next spring, when sown at this season of the year. A warm, rich border should be chosen, and the seed put in at once. Early in spring they must be transplanted to the desired position in the flower border.

Dahlias, Gladiolus, Tuberoses and other plants that.require winter protection for their roots in cellars, should be taken up at once on their leaves getting injured by the first white frosts. The two latter should be pretty well dried before storing away, or they may rot. Dahlias may be put away at once.

Trees may be set within nor 20 feet of each other in planting a place, for immediate effect - but people are sorry to cut away rare trees, and often leave them to injure each other. Only cheap trees should be set out to thicken for immediate effect.