Neatness and cleanliness should always be evident in the flower-borders, spent flowers, faded leaves and weeds being removed at least once a week and the surface of the soil stirred frequently with the push-hoe or hand-fork.
Continue to stake and neatly tie in Carnations and all plants requiring support, doing this before the stems begin to fall or bend over. Vacant spaces, rendered so by the passing of the late-Spring flowers, may be planted after being fertilized and spaded, Dahlias, Salvias, Chrysanthemums, etc., being utilized for late-Fall flowering.
Dahlias, of course, all require stakes which should be set before the work of planting proceeds, and the shoots ought to be fastened loosely to the stakes so that they may not be broken by the wind.
Roses, should have all spent flowers removed, partly for appearance's sake and partly as a relief to the plants. After the first crop of flowers is past, sprinkle a little bone-meal or other artificial fertilizer around the plants and stir the surface of the soil, leaving it a little rough so that when water is applied, which should be done immediately, the water will wash the fertilizer rootward. A few hours later, or as soon as the soil will work freely, dress the surface neatly with the rake.
Climbing roses, especially the strong-growing, free-flowering varieties, should have the young shoots secured to the wires or the trellises. If their roots are in soil which is light and dry, abundance of water should be given and immediately followed by a light mulching.
Attend at this time of the year to the regulating and thinning of climbing plants generally; where they are crowded, thin them out, and, where plants have not filled their allotted space, some shoots should be laid in for the purpose.
Chrysanthemums should now be in condition to be transplanted into their flowering pots, the exact date for potting being however of not so much importance as the condition and quantity of roots in the pot. Unless the roots show a network around the ball, repotting should be deferred until this condition prevails. When giving them their final potting, use soil composed of any good, strong, turfy-loam mixed freely with old horse-manure and a little sand. As Chrysanthemums require a large amount of water, the drainage of the pots should be ample and carefully placed so as to prevent waterlogging. After potting, place them thickly together on a cindered or ash-covered surface in a sheltered position, out of doors.
The dryness of the air at this season will necessitate the constant damping of the paths and stages of the greenhouse. Open all ventilators early in the morning, closing them again early in the evening; syringe ferns and all smooth-leaved and ornamental-leaved plants not showing flower, with tepid water, but carefully avoid syringing with cold water or water with a temperature lower than the air of the greenhouse at the time of syringing. Plants, showing flower-trusses, should occasionally receive weak manure-water or a top-dressing of some artificial manure.
Sow seeds of Calceolaria, for succession, in shallow pots or pans, carefully drained and containing soil (consisting of loam, leaf-mold and silver-sand in equal parts) which has been passed through a half-inch meshed sieve. The soil should be pressed firm and watered a few hours before putting in the seeds which should be sown evenly. Barely cover the seeds with a light sprinkling of silver-sand; place them in a cold frame or hand glass, facing the North; keep them closely shaded until they germinate when air may be admitted gradually; sprinkle them overhead morning and evening.