Those who have a greenhouse often wish to force strawberries into fruit several weeks in advance of the time that they will be ripe in the open air. It may be done in a frame or pit. The young runners must be first layered in pots, as already described, as early as runners are formed, and as soon as the small pots are filled with roots, they must be shifted into larger ones, say six inches in diameter, the runners being pinched off as they appear, so as to throw the whole strength of the plant into the fruiting crown. The soil in which to pot strawberries for forcing is the one we recommend for nearly all plants; three parts rotted sods, and one part rotted manure. The potted strawberries should be placed on boards, flagging, or a layer of coal ashes, to prevent the earthworms from getting in at the bottom of the pots. At first, after being shifted, they should be set closely together, but as they grow they must be spread apart, as it is necessary that the air pass around the pots to ripen the roots. Of course the necessary attention to water is as important with these as with other plants in pots. They may thus stand in the open air until November, when the pots may be plunged in dry leaves to prevent their being broken by frost; and the tops also covered an inch or two with the same material; as cold weather advances, they may be taken in at intervals of two weeks or so and placed on the shelves of a greenhouse, near the glass, where the temperature will average at night 50 degrees, and if due attention to watering has been given, a crop will be the result, such as will well repay the labor, not only as fruit, but the plants so loaded will themselves be beautiful greenhouse ornaments. Good varieties for forcing are Triomphe de Gand and Champion.