While roses can be grown in almost any kind of soil they prefer that it be deep, rich and well drained. If it contains considerable clay, the growth will be more luxuriant and the blooms richer in color. As they are gross feeders, the soil should be well enriched with thoroughly decomposed stable manure. If this is done the fall before the roses are to be planted and thoroughly spaded into the soil, the results will be better. The subsoil should be loose and of such a character that water will pass through it quickly. If it is not naturally so, the subsoil should be removed to a depth of two or three feet and the bed refilled with coarse porous material at the bottom and rich soil placed above.

Roses like protection from strong winds in summer, also from the damaging winds of March and early April when the sap is just becoming active in the top and before root action has begun. They require a fair amount of sunlight and a southern exposure. They should not be planted too near buildings or tall trees, for in these places they are more susceptible to attacks from mildew. They should be protected from alternate freezing and thawing during late winter, for this is especially likely to cause winter-killing. The location for the rose garden should be such that when once frozen it may remain in that condition when properly mulched.

Field-grown plants should be transplanted in early spring, or in the fall as soon as they become sufficiently dormant to be moved without danger of shriveling or withering. Spring is usually considered the best season, as the plants start into growth at once, and become well established before the following winter. Pot-grown roses can often be secured and planted during the summer, and are useful for filling in vacant spaces in beds.

Distances apart for planting roses are regulated somewhat by the varieties used. Such varieties as Moss Roses, Persian Yellow Roses and other strong growing kinds may be set three feet apart, about two feet apart, and Teas and Hybrid Teas from one and one-half to two feet apart. In planting several varieties in one bed, the stronger growing kinds should be placed in the centre, or if in borders, they should be set back of the weaker growing kinds.

Budded or grafted plants should be set so deeply that the junction of the bud or graft is at least three inches below the surface of the soil. In fact, deep planting is one of the most essential things in successful rose culture. After placing the plant in position, the earth should be firmly pressed in around it. The roots should be placed in a natural position, and loam free from hard lumps carefully worked in between them. Care should be taken that plants, while out of the ground, are kept from the wind and sun, and that the roots are never allowed to become dry. Pot-grown plants should be carefully removed from the pots and set in the ground without disturbing the roots or breaking the ball of earth, and after planting, some shade should be given for a few days, and a liberal amount of water applied.

If dormant plants are set out in the spring, they should be pruned immediately after planting. After being set to the proper depth and the ground leveled, they should be cut down to within three or four inches of the ground. If planted in the fall, the pruning should be deferred until early in the following spring, so that such wood as winterkills may be removed.

To obtain the best flowers, and in order to keep the plants thrifty and attractive, it is necessary that ever-blooming varieties should be cut back to within a few inches of the ground each spring. In pruning the Hybrid Perpetuals all weak wood should be removed and the strong canes cut back to within three or four buds above the ground. Moss Roses, and such other varieties which bloom only in the spring, should be pruned immediately after flowering.

During the summer an occasional watering with liquid manure will be beneficial. Arrangements should be made if possible for a constant water supply in the rose garden, for the foliage is kept in a good, healthy condition and insects are kept in check by syringing with considerable force early in the morning on bright days. Water should not, however, be applied during the middle of the day.

In late fall, when the plants are well ripened, some protection should be given, and while loam heaped up around the plants furnishes the best protection, leaves, hay or straw to the depth of from eight inches to one foot may be used for covering. It is best to apply mulches for winter protection after the ground has frozen somewhat.

Many insects attack the rose plants. Among these the green fly, or aphis, the rose chafer, or rose-bug, and the red spider are the most troublesome. The rose-bug is the hardest of the enemies to combat, and it has been the experience of the writer that paris green dusted over the plants is most effective.

The red spider is a very small insect, which is scarcely distinguishable to the eye. It is generally found on the under sides of the leaves, which soon assume a sickly yellow tinge. It is most destructive to plants trained against buildings or in positions where they are particularly exposed to the hot sun. The most effective remedy is syringing with cold water, thrown in an upward manner, to reach the undersides of the leaves, and applied with sufficient force to remove the insects from the leaves.

The aphis, or green fly, can be exterminated by dusting the plants with tobacco dust while they are wet with dew, or by spraying with water in which tobacco stems or leaves have been soaked.

Mildew often causes considerable injury. It is generally caused by sudden atmospheric changes, or by continued cloudy or damp weather. As a remedy, dry sulphur may be shaken over the plant early in the morning, while the leaves are wet with dew.