If whatever planting has to be done was not completed in November, it ought to be finished early in December, because prolonged bad weather may come at any time, and prevent the completion of the work.

Pruning

The pruning of the various kinds of hardy fruits may be dealt with now. Those which were summer-pruned will have short shoots, which may be cut back close to a bud near the base. Young fruit trees which were planted recently ought to be cut hard back. The main branches of established trees ought not to be cut in severely, but the side shoots may be pruned back. These remarks apply to Apples, Pears, Plums, Damsons, Currants, and Gooseberries. Cherries need very little pruning. As the details of pruning were given in Chapter I (Jan. The Opening Year)., it is unnecessary to repeat them here.

Pruning Vines.

Fig. 96. - Pruning Vines.

(1). a. - How to cut back a young vine, leaving a leading bud and two side buds at b.

(2). Shows how to prune an older vine: a. the buds to prune to; b. where the side branch should be cut off.

Grapes

Those who force Grapes for early crops, and want them ripe by the end of May, must start the Vines soon. They will have been well ripened, rested, and pruned. Few growers, however, except in large establishments, force Grapes so soon. The amateur who grows them in a small vinery, or possibly on the roof of his conservatory, will be in the position of having the Vines completely at rest now, and his course is to prune them and clean them. The laterals which have borne fruit should be cut back, and if a plump bud can be found close to the main rod, prune to that. The closer the laterals can be pruned in annually the better, because long gnarled stumps, which harbour insects, are avoided. Still, it is no use pruning to a weak, thin bud; rather than this, leave a short stump. Where the rods are old and worn take up a new one (Fig. 97).

Taking up Fresh Vine Rods.

Fig. 97. - Taking up Fresh Vine Rods.

a. Old vine rod.

b. Old spurs.

c. New rod to replace old one.