There are many varieties of glue, ranging in price from twelve cents to fifty cents per pound. For general use, a good quality of glue can be purchased for twenty or twenty-five cents per pound. Previous to cooking, glue should be soaked in cold water till it becomes quite soft and pliable; the length of time required depends on the kind and quality of the glue: poor, cheap glue will nearly, and sometimes completely, dissolve in cold water; while good glue will require several hours' soaking; some kinds require to be soaked twenty-four hours or more, but such glue is not commonly used. When the glue has been soaked sufficiently, drain off what water remains, and set the dish holding the glue into a dish containing water, and set it over the fire to cook. The object of setting the glue-dish into water, is to prevent the glue from getting scorched. The water cannot get hotter than 212°, which is not hot enough to injure the glue. To secure the best possible results, the following conditions must be complied with: namely, the glue must be of good quality and newly made; it must be of the proper consistency, neither too thick - or the two surfaces will not come together - nor yet too thin; the glue must be as hot as boiling water can heat it; the work must be properly fitted, and should be as warm as can be borne against the cheek: the room should be very warm, especially in gluing large surfaces, and i:i veneering: the glue should be plentifully applied to both surfaces, and then the work should be clamped together firmly; and the clamps should not be taken off until the glue is hard, clear into the middle of the joints. Very large jobs of gluing should set two or three days before the clamps are removed. The consistency of the glue will depend somewhat on the kind of work to be done. For large surfaces, the glue may be quite thin, and plentifully used. For small work, the glue may be of thicker consistency; but it must be applied hot. For gluing wood endways, the ends should first be sized with a very thin coat of glue; when the sizing gets thoroughly dry. smooth the raised grain with a piece of fine sand-paper used over a straight stick; then coat each end with hot glue, and clamp firmly together; let it set over night, sure. In gluing boards together edgeways, many workmen do not bother to joint them both true, but depend on the clamps to force them to a joint. If the glue is good, the work may hold together some time; but there is always a strain on the glue. Some spell of damp weather may soften the glue a very little, and open goes the joint. Of course, the glue gets the blame, instead of the workman, who deserves to be blamed. While many workmen make rubbed joints six feet or more in length, it is a bad practice: no joint longer than two feet ought ever to be merely rubbed together, and it is safer to apply clamps in every case. In veneering, put a thickness of newspaper between the veneer and the caul. This prevents the glue, which strikes through the veneer, from sticking the veneer to the caul. Some accomplish the same purpose by using sheets of zinc, which they rub with a piece of hard soap or wax. This is better than using paper, as it saves the labor of cleaning the paper off from the veneer.

To keep glue from smelling, take the dish holding the glue out of the dish containing the water, when done using, so as to let the glue get cold as soon as possible. Also do not keep the glue boiling all day long, but heat it only when it is needed. It is a good plan to make up only enough at a time to last two or three days, especially in the summer-time, so as to have it fresh and good. A piece of sheet-zinc, as large as will lay in the bottom of the glue-pot, will also greatly aid in keeping the glue from smelling. Some put in a little alcohol, but it is doubtful whether it does any good: it probably very quickly evaporates. Oil of cloves would be better.

N.B. - Keep thin-shaved veneers, such as ash and walnut burls, in rather a damp place until wanted; as they will curl and split up badly if kept in a dry room.