The Conning-Tower is made of two square blocks (H and I, Fig. 282). Figure 289 shows the sizes of the blocks. Nail the blocks together, and peg the lower one (H) to the deck with dowel-pin J (Fig. 282).
The Gun Turrets (K, Fig. 282) are small pieces of dowel-stick (Fig. 290).
The Main-Battery Guns (L), mounted in holes bored in the sides of the turrets (Fig. 290), are small pieces of dowel-stick cut of the shape shown in Fig. 291. Drill a small hole through the center of the ends of each turret, through which to drive the nail pivot M (Fig. 282).
The Secondary-Battery Guns "(N, Fig. 282) are the ends of burnt matches. Figure 292 shows the length to cut them.
This toy model is mounted upon wheels so that it can be run upon the floor, as well as floated upon water. Use
Figs. 286 and 287. Fig. 285. -- Fighting-Tops Mast
Fig. 288. - Funnel
Fig. 289. - Details of Conning Tower
Fig. 290. - Turret and Guns Figs. 291 and 292. - Guns
Spool Wheels (P, Fig. 282), cut the stick axles Q to fit snugly in the spool holes, and support the axle ends with screw-eyes R, screwing these into the hull.
The Wireless Aerial is suspended between the mast-tops (Fig. 282). Use toothpicks for spreaders S and thread for wire strands T and end loops U.
The Cruiser shown in Fig. 293 is propelled by a paddle-wheel operated by a twisted rubber-band. The rubber-band untwists rapidly, so that the boat does not travel far before a re-twisting is necessary, but boys who have made this model have been satisfied with the results, so the author believes that you will be satisfied, also.
Figure 294 shows a plan of the completed ship. The method of construction is quite similar to that of the battleship just described, so read over the instructions for making that model before beginning work on this one.
The Hull (A) is shown in plan in Fig. 295. After marking this out and cutting it, in the same way as described for the other model, prepare the blocks which form
The Superstructure-Deck (B and C, Figs. 296 and 297). Cut block B out of material 5/8-inch thick, by the width and length given. Bore the turret openings along the sides before cutting out the block, to prevent splitting it. Make these openings 1 inch in diameter. You will find the location of their centers shown upon the diagram. Holes E
Fig. 293. - Toy Battleship with Propeller
Fig. 294. - Plan of Completed Toy Battleship
Fig. 295. - Plan of Hull 151 are for the funnel ends to fit in. Make them 5/8 inch in diameter. Holes F are for the mast ends to fit in. Bore them in the positions indicated making them 1/4 inch in diameter.
Cut block C of the same width and length as block B, out of material 1/4 inch thick. Bore holes E and F through it in the same places as those bored through block B, so that when the two blocks are placed together, the holes will come over one another (Fig. 298).
The eight revolving
Gun Turrets (D, Fig. 294) can be sawed from a broom handle or portiere-pole. Figure 299 shows the size to cut them. The hole in the side is made to receive a gun. The turrets "fore and aft" have two holes each, for two guns. Another small hole must be drilled through the center of the ends of the turrets, as a provision for pivoting the turrets so that they will revolve.
Figure 298 shows the size to cut
The Main-Battery Guns. If you want to save work, do not taper the sides of the guns as shown. The tapering, however, adds much to their appearance.
The Secondary-Battery Guns. Set five of these in holes bored along each side of the hull, and three in holes in each side edge of deck piece C. (Fig. 293). You can cut these like the main battery guns.
Figs. 296 and 297. - Plans of Superstructure-Deck Blocks
The Funnels (E, Fig. 298) are shown in detail in Fig. 300. They drive down through the holes bored in blocks B and C of the deck.
The Masts (F) are 1/4 inch in diameter and 6 inches long. Slip spools G upon them to come at the foot, and half-way between the spools and the mast-tops fasten the spool ends H for
Fighting-Tops. You will find it easy to cut off the ends of a spool if you will slip a stick through the spool, to hold the spool by while sawing.
The first step in
Assembling the model consists in nailing block B to hull A in the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 295. Then mount
Fig. 298. - Detail Showing How Superstructure-Deck (B and C), Gun Turrets (D), Funnels (E), Masts (F), and Fighting-Tops (H) are Assembled the gun-turrets, six to turn in the openings in the sides of block B, the remaining two "fore and aft" 1/4 inch from the ends of block B.
Having mounted the turrets, nail deck block C to block B.
The Paddle -Wheel (Fig. 301) is made of two pieces (7 and J, Fig. 302), halved together - that is, each piece has a slot cut across half its depth, so that the two will interlock as shown in Fig. 301. Cut the pieces out of wood 1/8 inch thick. Drive a double-pointed tack into the center of each end of the assembled paddle-wheel, and connect a rubber-band to each tack. Then take a pair of screw-eyes, open each eye enough to form a hook (K, Fig. 303), screw the pair into the corners of the stern of the hull, at the angle shown in Figs. 293 and 294, and slip the ends of the rubber-bands over them. By setting the screw-eyes at the angle indi-
Fig. 299 - Detail of Gun Turret Fig. 300. - Detail of Funnel
Figs. 301-303. - Details of Propeller cated, there is greater length of rubber-band to twist in winding the motor. This is important.
If you make this cruiser model for your indoor battleship fleet, you had better mount it upon wheels in the same manner as the model shown in Fig. 281 is mounted.