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Lacking a sprinkling-can, one of the best substitutes the author knows of is a tin can with perforated bottom,

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Fig. 631. - Tin Can Garden Sprinkler and a stick handle fastened to the side (Fig. 631). For gome purposes

A Tin Can Sprinkler like this is handier than a regular sprinkling-can. Because it is so simple to make, every gardener might own several. The number, size, and

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Fig. 634. - Using a Planting Trencher Fig. 635. - Detail of Trencher location of the perforations can be regulated to suit the kind of spray wanted. Use the point of a nail or awl for making holes. Drive nails through the can into the stick handle.

Many gardeners prefer.

A Dibble to a hoe or rake, for making holes for large seeds, for planting bulbs, and for transplanting seedlings. Figure 632 shows one easily made. Whittle a stick handle like that shown, and drive a 16-penny nail (a nail 3 1/2 inches long) through it near the end. This is a good form of dibble for seed planting.

An Umbrella-Handle Dibble like that shown in Fig. 633 is excellent for making holes for bulbs and transplant-ings. Cut off about one-half of the length of the rod.

For making trenches preparatory to planting rows of seed, or transplanting,

A Planting Trencher like that shown in Fig. 634 is handy. This requires the runner A (Fig. 635), 16 inches long, the stick handle

B, 3 feet long, and the pair of braces C, by which the handle is fastened to the runner. With this little tool you can make trenches quickly.

A Seed Basket, made of a fruit basket supported upon the rod of an umbrella as shown in Fig. 636, holds the seed packages within convenient reach for planting. Punch a hole through the basket bottom for the rod to run through, and tie the basket handle to the umbrella rod and handle.

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Garden Markers. Clothespins are useful for pinning the names of seeds planted, to the tops of stakes used for garden markers (Fig. 637). Cut the stake top thin enough for the clothespin to slip over. Tear the bottom out of the seed envelope, slip the envelope over the stake, and slip one prong of a clothespin down over the stake top (Fig. 638).

Figure 639 shows

How to Put Up Strings for Vines planted alongafence. Instead of running a separate string for each vine, the method illustrated, which is a saver of time, consists in starting where the first vine is planted, and tying the end of the string to a nail driven into the fence top directly over the vine, then running the string down to and tying to a stake driven into the ground beside the vine, crossing over

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Figs. 642-644. - Details of Folding Tomato-Rack to and tying to a stake driven into the ground beside the next vine, running the string up to and over a nail in the fence top directly above the vine, over to a nail in the fence top directly above the next vine, down to a stake driven close to that vine, and continuing in this manner until a string has been provided for each vine.

Figure 640 shows how clothespins can be used for pinning down the strings to the ground. By using these it is not necessary to tie the strings.

If you will make your

Tomato-Racks so they can be folded up for storing during the winter season, they will last indefinitely, and in the long run you will be repaid for the time you spend now in making them. Figure 641 shows a row of folding racks. Use laths for the vertical and cross strips A and B (Fig. 642), and buy 3/4-inch stove-bolts for fastening them together. Bore holes through the strips near the ends, for the bolts to slip through (Fig. 643), and drive a double-pointed tack into the ends of crosspiece B, and another into the side edge of vertical pieces A. Point the lower end of strips A so they will push into the ground with little resistance.

Figure 641 shows the racks in position, with string braces tied to the double-pointed tacks. Additional strings can be fastened to the racks if found necessary.