With the steps and rear legs assembled prepare
The Top Step or seat (H) by the pattern shown in Fig. 128. Then screw one flap of a pair of hinges (/) to the inner face of crosspiece D of the steps, the flap of another pair of hinges (J) to the outer face of rear legs E, and screw the other flaps to the under side of seat H in the positions shown in Fig. 124.
The Struts K prevent the legs from sliding farther apart when the ladder is opened to the position shown in Fig. 124. Cut this pair of strips of the size shown in Fig. 129, bore a screw-hole near each end, and screw the ends both to rails A and rear legs E, as shown in Fig. 118. If the struts have been adjusted carefully, the step-ladder will fold into the form shown in Fig. 119, but not while a weight is upon the steps. That is to say, the
Stool Folded ladder will not fold up while you are standing or sitting upon it.
Fig. 120. - Detail of Ladder Steps Fig. 121. - Dimensions of Side Rails
Fig. 122. - Dimensions of Steps Fig. 123. - How Steps and Parts are Joined
Fig. 124. - Cross-Section of Step-Ladder Stool Fig. 125. - Rear Legs
Fig. 126. - Dimensions of Rear Legs FlG. 127. - The Braces
Fig. 128. - Top Step or Stool Seat Fig. 129. - Strut
The Clothes-Line Reel in Fig. 130 is intended for use upon the kitchen porch (Fig. 131), in the kitchen, bath-room, or laundry. The reel screws to the wall, where it is always ready for instant use; and, because the clothes-line can be wound up out of the way after the dried clothes have been removed, the reel is very convenient for crowded quarters.
Fig. 130. - Clothes-Line Reel
Fig. 131. - The Reel in Use
The Case of the Reel is a tomato can with both ends removed (Fig. 132). If the ends are clinched over the can sides, cut them away with a can opener. Start holes B with a nail, and enlarge with a rat-tail file until 1/2 inch in diameter. File the edges of the holes smooth, so they will not cut the clothes line which is to run through them.
Cut blocks C (Figs. 132 and 133) to fit snugly in the can ends. Use a scroll-saw or bracket-saw (Fig. 18, Chap. 2) if you own one; otherwise, cut the blocks roughly with a large saw, and finish up to the circumference with a chisel and sandpaper.
The Reel. Winding-stick D of the reel (Fig. 133) is a dowel-stick 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch in diameter. Its length
Fig. 132. - Case of Clothes-Line Reel Fig. 133. - Detail of Winding-Stick Figs. 134 and 135. - Details of Crank should be 1 inch longer than the can. Bore a hole through the center of each end block C, for the stick to turn in. A brad driven through one end, and the crank-shaft tacked to the other end, will prevent the stick from pulling out of the holes (Figs. 133 and 134).
The Crank Shaft (E, Figs. 134 and 135) should be 2 1/2 inches long, 5/8 inch wide, and 5/8 inch thick. To prevent its splitting, it is best to bore the hole for winding-stick D, and also to screw spool knob F in position, before shaping the block to its finished width and thickness.
The Clothesline should be of cotton, and should be 50 feet long. Slip the rope ends through holes B in the front of the tin can case, pass them around the winding stick D, as shown in Fig. 133, and fasten with tacks.
Fasten end blocks C of the reel case with screws driven through the can sides into their edges.
For Hangers screw the pair of screw-eyes G (Fig. 132) into end blocks C, as shown. Fasten the reel to a wall by driving screws through the eyes of the hangers into the wall (Fig. 130).
There must be a means for
Locking the Reel when as much line as is wanted has been unwound. Bore several holes through end C of the reel case (the end at which the crank is mounted), and provide a nail to stick into the holes for a locking-pin, to prevent the crank from turning. Hang the locking-pin from one of the hangers by means of a piece of string (Fig. 130).
It is best to give the case of the reel two coats of paint, to keep the tin from rusting.