Shellac and Varnish

When the stained wood has dried, the final finishing coats of shellac and varnish may be applied.

White shellac in liquid form is used as a base for the varnish coat. This should be brushed on with smooth, rapid strokes and allowed to dry. Air bubbles or blisters should be sanded out with garnet paper, grades 3/0, 5/0, or 8/0.

Any good grade furniture or floor varnish may be used for the final finishing coats. Pour the varnish into a cup or small, large-mouthed can. Never use directly from the varnish container.

Do not shake the varnish container, as this produces bubbles in the liquid. Allow twelve hours or more for drying. (Follow directions on the varnish container.)

When it is dry, sand the figure with 5/0 or 8/0 garnet paper to remove the gloss and reduce the varnish thickness. Dust carefully and cover again with an even coat of varnish.

Give the varnish plenty of time to dry; then rub with pumice stone and crude oil. This cuts the gloss more slowly than pumice and water and gives a dull, silky finish.

Medieval Carver's Finish

Several coats of raw linseed oil at twenty-four hour intervals, followed by several coats of good grade wax, well rubbed, form this finish. Do not use cheap, self-polishing waxes. A satisfactory wax may be made by cutting beeswax into turpentine until the mixture is butterlike. Heat this before using.

The secret of soft, beautiful wax finishes is many thin coats, each put on across the grain, allowed to dry, and then polished with a soft-bristle brush, sheepskin, or a soft cloth.

French Polish

French polish is an elaborate finish which is a combination of knack and hard work. It is put on over raw linseed oil after cleaning and dusting the surface carefully.

The polish is a mixture of 3/8 pound of pale orange shellac for each pint of alcohol and is applied with a wad or a pad of soft, lintless rag.

Make a convenient-sized pad. Cover with a soft, old cotton rag, smooth out all wrinkles, and pour a little polish on it. With your finger, put a drop of linseed oil on the center of the pad and begin to polish over a small area, moving the pad in circular strokes.

Rub constantly. If you stop, the pad will stick to the surface and ruin the finish. Do not press too hard, and keep adding polish. Continue in small areas, overlapping each one and being sure to apply plenty on the undercut parts of the piece.

Let the surface dry for several hours. Then rub down with fine 5/0 garnet paper. Apply another coat of polish and repeat until the grain is filled. Rub in a final coat of alcohol alone.