This section is from the "A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods" book, by George S. Cole. Also available from Amazon: A complete dictionary of dry goods and history of silk, cotton, linen, wool and other fibrous substances,: Including a full explanation of the modern processes ... together with various useful tables.
Delaine (De-Lane'). [French mousseline de laine, muslin of wool]. An expressive title which signifies fully what manner of fabric they properly should be. Delaine was originally a plain woven, muslin-like dress fabric, made of fine "woolen" yarn, but afterward degenerated into cotton or mixed materials, and frequently printed. The old-fashioned, soft, plain-woven wool delaine is easily recognized at present under the name of challi. The endurance of these fabrics is especially commendable ; they do not wrinkle easily, and when made up and properly draped possess an essentially feminine and dainty look.