This section is from the "A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods" book, by George S. Cole. Also available from Amazon: A complete dictionary of dry goods and history of silk, cotton, linen, wool and other fibrous substances,: Including a full explanation of the modern processes ... together with various useful tables.
Gloria. A fabric the warp of which is silk and the weft either of cotton, wool or mohair. In the process of weaving glorias, the silk is so thrown up that the surface has a soft silken luster, while the fineness of the weft mingled with it gives the fabric a firm and even appearance. Silk-and-cotton glorias are used largely in the manufacture of umbrellas and men's "silk" shirts, as well as for ladies' dresses.