This section is from the "A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods" book, by George S. Cole. Also available from Amazon: A complete dictionary of dry goods and history of silk, cotton, linen, wool and other fibrous substances,: Including a full explanation of the modern processes ... together with various useful tables.
Sateen. A twilled cotton fabric, used for ladies' dresses when printed with appropriate patterns, and for linings and underwear when dyed in solid colors. Sateen may be made a 3, 4, or 5 leaf twill, which when woven of fine yarn and properly calendered produces a sort of satin face. French sateen is "quarter satin," the warp passing over four wefts each time and under one, and so on in regular order. Satin itself is woven sixteen "harness," that is the warp passes over sixteen threads each time and under one, and so on. Amazon sateen is an extra heavy variety designed especially for women's riding habits. Sateen finished drill, is a fine all-linen fabric used for working table scarfs and fancy mats.