1229. Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage

1229.    Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage. A series of shallow iron frames, adapted for piling on each other, and fitting close together, being provided, a piece of white, spongy cotton-cloth is stretched upon each, and is then freely moistened with oil of almonds, olives, or ben. On the cloth is next laid a thin layer of the fresh-plucked flowers, and each frame, as thus covered, is placed on the preceding one, until a compact pile of them is raised. In 24 to 30 hours the flowers are replaced by fresh ones; and this is repeated every day, or every other day, until 7 or 8 different lots of flowers have been consumed, or the oil has become sufficiently charged with their odor. The cotton-cloths are then carefully collected and submitted to powerful pressure, and the expressed oil which flows from them is placed aside in corked bottles or jars, to settle. After some time it becomes perfectly clear, and is then ready to be decanted into other bottles for store or sale. Sometimes trays with perforated bottoms, on which are laid thin layers of cotton-wool slightly moistened with the oil, are substituted for the frames and cotton-cloth above referred to. Sometimes, also, sheep's wool or cotton wool impregnated with oil, is stratified with flowers in a large earthen vessel, and this, after being closely covered up, is kept for 10 or 12 hours gently heated by means of a water-bath. The next day the old flowers are replaced by fresh ones, and the whole process repeated again and again, as often as necessary. The oil is finally obtained by pressure from the wool, as before. When only a moderate degree of aroma is required in the oil, the flowers may be crushed in a mortar or a mill, with one-half their weight of blanched sweet almonds, and the next day, or the second day after, according to the weather, the mass, after being slightly warmed, may be submitted to the press. After about a week's repose, the upper portion, which is the perfumed oil, may be decanted, and, if necessary, filtered. This plan is occasionally adopted in this country for "Oil of Roses," and a few other flowers, intended for the hair. (Cooley.)

1230. To Perfume Hair Oils

1230.    To Perfume Hair Oils. The mixtures of essential oils, and other odorous substances, used in the preparation of the perfumed spirits, will furnish examples which may be followed in scenting hair oils and pomades, and from these can be framed other combinations as the fancy may suggest. {See Nos. 1243 (Mixed Essential Oils, or Mixed Scents) and 1261.)

1231. Colorless Hair Oils

1231.    Colorless Hair Oils. In preparing colorless or white hair oils, blanched fixed oil, and new and colorless, or nearly colorless, essential oils and essences only are employed.

1232. Colored Hair Oils

1232.    Colored Hair Oils. The colored oils derive their hues from the fixed oil of which they are prepared being tinged before the scent is added. In each case the colored oil should be allowed to clarify itself by repose in a closed vessel and a warm situation (60 to 70° Fahr.) before being decanted for further treatment. It is also better to pass it through a piece of coarse muslin, to remove floating particles; and, in some cases, it may be necessary to filter it, to render it quite brilliant - a quality which it should always possess.