Point 5. The ears should be large and pendulous, from 3½in. to 4in. long, set far apart, well back, and rather low on the skull, hanging close to the cheeks, like a hound's or beagle's, but a little more pointed or almond-shaped, i.e., broad at the base, and tapering to a small rounded point. The taper should be all, or nearly all, on the back edge, the front edge hanging nearly straight down from its junction with the head to the tip. They ought to show a little shoulder at the base, which causes the tips of the ears to point a little forwards towards the jaw. They should be moderately thick and leathery, and covered with a short, soft, darker and brighter sort of hair than on the body, having a smooth velvety appearance, showing no lint or silky hair, excepting in some cases a thin feather of lighter hair starting about an inch or so from the tip, and of the same colour and texture as the top-knot; this gives the top of the ear the appearance of a distinct point.

Point 6. The neck should be rather short, and very muscular, well-developed, and strong, showing great power by being well set into the shoulder. The length of neck should average about one-third of its girth.

Point 7. The body should be very long and flexible, measuring from top of shoulders to root of tail about an inch or two over one and a half times the height of dog at shoulder. Chest well developed and broad, with brisket round and deep, being well let down between the fore legs. The back should be rather low at the shoulders, and slightly curved down behind them, with a corresponding arch, the rise commencing about 2in. behind the shoulder blade; over the loins, which should be higher than the shoulders, broad and strong, with a slight gradual droop from the top of loins to root of tail. Ribs well sprung and rounded, back and front, forming a good barrel. Both sides of spine should be well supplied with muscle; in fact, every part of the dog seems to be abundantly supplied with muscle, giving it great compactness.

Point 8. The tail (or stern) should be in length a little less than the height of the dog at the shoulder. It should be set on at the bottom of a gentle slope about 2in. from top of loins, being rather thick at the root, getting very slightly thicker for about 4in., then tapering off to a fine point. It should be covered on the upper side with wiry hair, of darker colour and stronger nature than that on the body, while the under side is lighter and less wiry, with a little nice light feather, commencing about 2in. from root, and from lin. to 2in. long, getting shorter as it nears the tip, which is pointed. It should be carried gaily, or houndlike, slightly curved upward, but not directly curled over the back. N.B. When not excited nearly in a horizontal line, but otherwise houndlike.

Point 9. The legs. The fore-legs should be very short in proportion to the dog's size, very stout, and set wide apart, thick, and straight, with immense muscular development in the fore-arm; this, with the ankles being very slightly turned inwards, makes the dog appear somewhat bandy-legged, but the leg bones themselves should be stout and straight, and not curved. The feet should be well framed and broad, but not flat, standing firm, and well under the chest, with very little or no feather on the legs. Hind legs thick and strong, longer than the fore-legs, well spread, with a good bend in the hocks, the muscles of the thighs being very thick and well developed; the feet are much smaller, with no feather or dew-claws. The toes rather short, not hare footed. The claws black, and very strong. White claws, however, should not be a disqualification.

Point 10. Size. Height from 8in. to 12in. at top of shoulder, but never above 12in., even for a dog. Weight: Dogs, from 161b. to 241b.; bitches, from 141b. to 201b. The most desirable weight, 201b. for dogs and 161b. for bitches, but 241b. dogs are very useful to give bone, muscle, and stamina to the produce of the smaller ones.

Point 11. The coat. This is a very important feature. The hair (about 2in. long) along the top of the neck and upper part of the body should be a mixture of about two-thirds, rather hard (but not wiry), with one-third soft, linty, not silky hair, which gives a sort of crisp feeling to the hand, and constitutes what old John Stoddart used to term "a pily coat." It becomes lighter in colour and finer in texture as it nears the lower part of the body and legs. The head is covered with hair of a longer, lighter, and much more silky texture, giving it a silvery appearance, but not so long as to hang completely over the eyes like a Skye or poodle. The lighter in colour and softer the better.

Point 12. The colour, either mustard or pepper, and their mixtures. Mustard is a reddish or sandy brown of various shades. Pepper is a bluish grey, either dark in shade, ranging from a dark bluish black to slaty grey, or even a much paler or silvery grey; sometimes a combination of both, in which case the back is grey, while the legs, inside of ears, chest, and under side of tail are mustard, verging on a pale red or fawn colour. No other colours admitted, and any white, even on chest, is objectionable.

The subjects of our engravings are Grip and Shamrock. Mr. W. Wardlaw Reid's well-known Grip, a very compact and muscular dog, a true and excellent specimen of the breed, and one likely to leave his mark on the Dandie Dinmonts of the future, judging from the specimens of his pups we have seen. He was bred by the Rev. S. Tenison Mosse, and is a grandson of the old patriarch and champion Dandie Shamrock, Grip has also, as will be seen, a strain of Mr. Nichol Milne's celebrated Old Jock, and is the son of Mr. E. Bradshaw Smith's Dirk, known as "the incomparable Dirk," a son of Mr. Smith's Pepper, a dog that, on account of his fighting proclivities, received the appellation of "Peter the Murderer."

Shamrock has been longer before the public than any other Dandie, and is acknowledged one of the best ever shown. The following are the pedigrees of the two: