How can I improve my work for the coming year? This is one of the questions every man should ask himself occasionally and endeavor to answer.

Personally I don't believe in waiting for the beginning of a new year to make resolutions. Improve your work at every opportunity. Make negatives as good as you know how to make to begin with, and learn to judge the quality of your results in the dark room.It should not be necessary for you to have a proof from a negative to learn of its defects. If the highlights are blocked or the shadows veiled you should be able to detect these faults and correct them in the dark room. It saves time and unnecessary trouble. It also means that the negative gets favorable treatment which might be neglected after it has been proofed.

It is probably safe to say the majority of good darkroom workers have a reducer within easy reach for the after treatment of negatives, either Farmer's Reducer or acidified Potassium Permanganate.

The time for either general or local reduction of a negative is after it has been fixed and washed and before it has been dried. Of course it may be treated afterwards, but not so advantageously.

The method of treatment depends entirely upon the character of the negative. The two reducers mentioned above modify the gradations of the negative by acting to a greater degree at one end of the scale than the other.The Farmer's Reducer acts more on the shadows of the negative than on the highlights. A moderate reduction of the highlights may be accompanied by a complete loss of detail in the shadows.

It will be seen that this is a valuable reducer for overexposed, foggy or veiled negatives, since it clears the shadows

After Treatment Of Negatives StudioLightMagazine1914 13


By Sara F. T. Price

(Of the Women's Federation)

Mt. Airy, Philadelphia, Pa.

After Treatment Of Negatives StudioLightMagazine1914 14After Treatment Of Negatives StudioLightMagazine1914 15


By Sara F. T. Price

{Of the Women's Federation)

Mt. Airy, Philadelphia, Pa.

After Treatment Of Negatives StudioLightMagazine1914 16

and increases contrast as it reduces density.

A - Water............................ 1 oz.

Red Prussiate of Potash............................ 15 gr.

B - Water............................ 32 oz.

Hypo............................ 1 oz.

Add A to B and use either as a general or local reducer. Wash negatives thoroughly after reduction.

A ten per cent. solution of the Red Prussiate may be made and kept for an indefinite time. It should only be added to the Hypo when ready to use as the mixed solution deteriorates very rapidly.The character of the result is not affected by the strength nor the proportion of Red Prussiate present. A weak solution acting for a long time produces the same result as a strong solution for a short time. The weak solution is advised because it is more under control.

The Permanganate Reducer begins its action at the opposite end of the gradation scale and is more suitable for reducing negatives having strong contrasts. It attacks the highlights first, but is fairly even in its action over the entire negative.

This is a very satisfactory reducer for local work where it is desired to secure detail in the highlights of draperies without destroying detail of the shadows.

Dissolve 45 grains of Permanganate of Potash in 16 ounces of water that is as free as possible from organic matter.

For local reduction take one ounce of Permanganate solution and add one-half dram of concentrated Sulphuric Acid (sp. gr. 184) and dilute with one ounce of water.

Local reduction is usually accomplished by applying the solution with a tuft of cotton to the parts to be treated, dipping the negative in running water occasionally during the process. When sufficient reduction is secured the negative is rinsed and placed in a fresh Acid Fixing Bath for several minutes, then washed and dried.

These are probably the most satisfactory methods of reducing negatives, and as stated above are best used immediately after negatives have been fixed and thoroughly washed. Negatives that have been dried should be soaked for an hour before reduction is attempted, as it is necessary that the film be evenly soft.Many of the most beautiful low toned drapery effects are secured in the dark room by local reduction, but care must be used in handling any reducing solution. It is better to practice on discarded negatives until you become proficient.

Negatives that have been discolored by old Pyro Developer or otherwise stained, can usually be entirely freed from stain by washing thoroughly, immersing from ten to fifteen seconds in the Permanganate Solution, without the Sulphuric Acid, then washing and placing in the Acid Fixing Bath until perfectly clear. Wash and dry in the usual way.

After Treatment Of Negatives StudioLightMagazine1914 17


By Sara F. T. Price

(Of the Women's Federation)

Mt. Airy, Philadelphia, Pa.

After Treatment Of Negatives StudioLightMagazine1914 18