This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
This is the same in construction as the preceding, only instead of using a forme, the last is directly applied. Before the last is used it is well to mark thereon the positions for taking the various girth-measurements, and to do this the following will be useful.
Take a piece of manilla paper of convenient size, and mark lines at right angles to each other, as a, b, c, Fig. 112. Parallel to these make others at a distance of 3/4 in. From b mark 64, equal to a size 4*8 joint-distance from this 4, above and below, mark other sizes. The instep-positions* are marked from b to 4' on the inner side of slip.
* from toe end, and at 1/9 in.
* This is usually 3 in.
To use this locater, place the end b over the joint and move it until the figure denoting the size is level with the top of the toe; then bend the slip ba round the joints, and the girth is thus shown. Re-peat for the instep. Having located the positions, lay the last upon its side so that the feather touches the base-line AB, Fig. 110. Keeping in this relation, the seat of the last, to be in contact with D (the height of the heel) and the back when bent to the last, should touch the mark E. When in this stage, carefully mark on the paper the positions of the joints and insteps previously indicated on the last, and trace the outline of the model. Remove the last and measure the distances, and complete as Fig. 110 or Fig.
111. See also Fig. 105.