Seams, Underlays, and Lasting Allowances
Description
This section is from the book "The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes: Being A Modern Treatise Of All The Processes Of Making And Manufacturing Footgear", by F. Y. Golding. Also available from Amazon: The Manufacture Of Boots And Shoes.
Seams, Underlays, and Lasting Allowances
Seams.
Light top-band seams ............... 1/32 inch.
Glaces, gloves, kid, etc................ ,1/16 „
Levants, stouter kids, calf, etc............. 1/12 „
Kips, stout levants, stout calf, etc. ......... 1/8 „
Fabrics, all kinds.................. „
Underlays.
Light leathers, single rows of stitching......... „
„ double rows ............ 5/16 ,,
Stouter leathers
,, n punching............ 3/8 „
„ derbies, punching, etc.......... 1/2 „
Lasting.
Sewrounds, glaces, etc................ 3/16 „
„ patent, handsewn, etc. ......... ,,
„ fabrics, machine-welted foreparts...... 3/8 „
Machine-sewn, riveted „ seats...... „
„ „ stouter, from ......... 5/8 „
Discretion should be given to the nature of the leathers to be used: a soft, yielding leather may be comfortably made with an allowance that hard, stiff, and tinny leather would not do to have.
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