To make a reliable belt cement use 1 pound of Peter Cooper's white glue and 1 ounce of powdered white lead; mix like ordinary glue (thick). When used it should be thinned to the required consistency with grain alcohol and applied hot. This cement is particularly valuable where long, hard usage is required, such as for dynamo belts. J. H. V.
Put 15 pounds of best glue in a kettle and pour over it 5 gallons of cold water. Let it stand a few hours or over night in a cold room, after which dissolve by gentle heat. Stir in one pint of Venice turpentine and add one gallon of Martin's belt cement. Cook for four or five hours by gentle heat, being careful not to boil the mixture. A water or steam jacketed kettle should be used to avoid burning. If too thick, mix with water. Albert F. Babbitt.
To prepare a good cement for leather belts, soften equal parts of good hide-glue and American isinglass, in warm water for about 10 hours. Mix the two ingredients together thoroughly and then pour on a quantity of pure tannin and boil until the mass is sticky. Just enough tannin should be added so that the mass will have a good consistency when boiling hot. To apply the cement, roughen the surfaces to be cemented and apply the cement while it is very hot. Press the parts together firmly and hold in that position until dry.
Olney, Ill. T. E. O'Donnell.
To make a cement for leather belts use gutta percha, 16 parts; pure white India rubber, 4 parts; dissolve, and then add pitch, 2 parts; shellac, 1 part; and boiled linseed oil, 2 parts. W. R. Bowers.
One ounce shellac, 2 ounces pitch, 2 ounces linseed oil, 4 ounces caoutchouc, 1 pound gutta percha. Melt together and apply Lot. E. H. McClintock.
West Somerville, Mass.
Mix 5 ounces bisulphite of carbon with ½ ounce spirits of turpentine, and enough gutta percha to make a paste. Thin the ends of the belt so that when they are joined the thickness at the joint is the same as the thickness of the belt. If the belt ends are greasy, apply some blotting paper and a hot iron to free them from grease. Then apply some of the paste, and press the parts together, using screw clamps and two pieces of board of the same width as the belt. The cement will dry in a short time, when the clamps can be removed. I have cemented belts in this way at night, and in the morning they were as nicely joined as could be wished.
Los Angeles, Cal. J. M. Menegus.
Melt together 8 parts pure beeswax and 2 parts rosin; cut into strips when cold and apply with a slicking tool of the proper radius. A piece of wire set into a steel ball, and heated over a Bunsen burner is the best for this purpose. The pattern should be slightly warmed to enable the cement to flow between the leather and brass. When cold any superfluous cement may be removed with a piece of waste soaked in spirits of turpentine.
New York. H. J. Bachmann.