When making round-bellied saucepans, first cut the pattern for a frustum of a right cone, using the length of the curve of the side as the slant for the cone, and the top and bottom diameters of the saucepan for the diameters of the ends of the cone. The body is hollowed, usually in tacks of four, on a tinman's block. Commence by working across from side to side on the block until the whole surface has been covered and the metal slightly hollowed equally all over. Now take the metal over a deeper hole in the block, and work along the bottom edge and up to the centre of the body, so that the curve of the lower part of the body stands out more boldly than the top. Again work over the whole of the surface until the metal is smooth. The tacks of bodies are then smoothed on a planishing wheel, separated, cleaned, and planished singly, either on the planishing wheel or on the anvil. A square notch is next cut at both ends of the top, and a corner notch at the bottom of the body. The ends are then prepared for a grooved seam by folding an edge over on one and upon the hatchet stake, and the opposite end is swaged with a hammer swage, which forms a bead of semicircular section along the edge.

Half of the head is worked over inside with a round-faced hammer on a hatchet stake so as to form a fold, into which the fold on the opposite end will fit when the body is turned round. A flanger is next thrown off along the top edge with a round-faced hammer on an anvil stake, and this flange is worked over towards the outside of the body upon a hatchet stake, the size of the flange being proportionate to the size of the wire which it is to cover. Draw the fold down over the wire with a mallet, using a round-headed stake for the body to rest on, and then close the fold down neatly over the wire with the wiring machine. With the mallet work round the two ends of the top to a radius equal to the top of the body, and then work the body round by pressure from the hands upon any convenient tool until it is circular at both ends; hook the folds together and draw them together closely upon the saucepan belly stake with a groover. Throw off an edge at the bottom with a jenny. Cut out the bottom, making it sufficiently large to allow an edge to be taken up to fit over that thrown off on the body. Planish the bottom by covering the surface with a number of blows from a flat planishing hammer upon a bright anvil.

Next edge up the bottom and pene down the edge upon the edge on the body, work the edges partly over upon the hatchet stake, and close it down smooth and true upon a mandrel. Next rivet on the handle, solder round the bottom, along the groove, and over the rivet heads to complete the body. If a lip is required, the wired edge of the body is held firmly on an extinguisher stake at the place where the lip is to be formed, and a few smart blows are given with the heel of a mallet upon the wire at each side of the stake. A lip punch is then held firmly on the body from the wire downwards, and a blow delivered upon this gives the required taper. Oval bodies are the same size at the top and bottom, and are usually made in four pieces, the seams being formed in the same manner as for the round ones, and occurring at the parts of the oval where the side curve joins the curve of the end. When hollowing, the end pieces are hollowed deeper than the sides, and equally at the top and bottom. Oval bodies are usually wired after being grooved together.