Designer's Desk (Fig. 10-1) is a high-style item with several novel features. Desk top itself is 3/4" plywood cut to 30" x 60". Six pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle 291/4" long make the legs. Rivet each pair to a top crosspiece of 3/4" angle 281/2" long. Use reinforcing splice plates at connections. Two 36" pieces of 3/8" rod are next riveted crosswise between each pair of legs for bracing. Flatten rod at end by hammering, drill, and rivet.

Now turn table top upside down, and attach legs to underside of table top with wood screws. The center pair of legs are located 24" from the right pair measured between outside faces. Attach 36" pieces of 3/8" rod to back corner legs and up to back edge of table top for lateral bracing. Turn entire structure right side up for completing.

Fig. 10-2.

Left-hand drawer is a box of 3/4" plywood 6" wide, 14" high, and 18" deep, inside, and open at top. Front is closed with Masonite panel covered with plain aluminum sheet with the diamond scratch pattern of Fig. 5-4. Set this panel in slots cut 1" in from front of box. Drawer supports are 3/4" x 11/2" x 18" pieces attached to outside upper edges and riding on drawer slides made of 3/8" rod hanging down from underside of table top. Make drawer, install left-hand drawer slide, then position right-hand slide, using drawer as a guide.

The right-hand drawer sets just below a shelf of 3/4" plywood 231/2" wide, 301/2" deep, fitted inside the angle frame by notching edges of shelf. Drawer is a %" plywood box 211/2" wide, 71/2" high, 301/2" deep, outside dimensions, open at top. Front is closed the same as the other drawer above. Drawer has a 3/8" deep slot cut in the outside surface of each side, 2" from top edge for engaging with drawer slide of angle riveted to the legs as per Fig. 4-52. Note that slots end 2" from front of drawer.

Upper section of desk is a 3/4" plywood box 60" wide, 71/2" high, 12" deep on bottom, 10" deep on top, outside dimensions, open in front, with ends and front faces of top and bottom sloped to match. Sliding doors are Masonite, each 13" long and covered with plain sheet per Fig. 5-4. See Fig. 4-82 for sliding-door data. Two doors slide in front slots; two in back slots. This box sets on four legs of 1" tube filled with 3/4" wood dowel rod. Set legs 2" in from edge of box. Attach with wood screws up through table top and down through box. For convenience, attach legs before putting top piece on box.

Fig. 10-3.

Magazine Table (Fig. 10-2) is exceptionally easy to construct. Most people will prefer it about 60" long, 18" or 24" wide, 22" or 24" high. Make table top of 94" plywood, doubled to 11/2" at edges by adding strips underneath around edge. Trim with1/16" x 1" x 1" angle added to top or inset in top per Fig. 4-50.

Suggested dimensions are 24" wide, 12" deep at bottom, 14" high for top box; bottom box is the same depth as table width. It may be 16" high, 24" long. Legs are 3/8" rod, riveted together at bottom left, and attached to wood with round-headed screws through the rod.

Portable Bar or Tea Service (Fig. 10-3) is an ideal unit for the rumpus room. Top panel is 3/8" or 1/2" plywood or Nov-A-Ply, 16" x 55". A 6' piece of 1/8" x 3/4" x 94" angle frames the front and half of each end. Two pieces complete frame top. Bend corners per Fig. 4-39. Cupboard below is 14" deep, 27" wide, 14" high, over all, made of 94" plywood with front edges covered with ;angle frame and fitted with perforated Masonite sliding doors ( Fig. 4-82) painted white.

The legs of 94" tube support serving top 30" above floor by a unique system of spacers and 3/8" rod braces that give this

10-4 unit its novel appearance. Additional braces for front legs are recommended extending diagonally up underneath to bottom of cupboard. Rods are riveted to bottom of legs through open end of legs. See Fig. 4—64 for details of tube-to-tube T-joint on back legs which are flattened at top and screwed to underside of serving top. Bend front legs per Fig. 3-27 and accompanying instructions.

Cocktail Table (Fig. 10-4) is a delicate, highly modernistic design, 16" wide, 18" high, 42" long. The center section is a 24" x 16" piece of lincane pattern perforated sheet (Fig. 1-8). The two end sections of the table top are 10" x 16" pieces of plywood finished in black enamel. Start construction by making the plywood panels and finishing them.

The 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle used for the frame is made in two pieces, each extending down a side and halfway across each end. Bend the corners per Fig. 4-37. Fit the two butt joints to exactly 16" inside dimensions across the end of the table. Position the perforated sheet in the center of frame, lay the two plywood panels in position, screw the frame to underside of panels, and screw the perforated sheet to underside of panels.

For the handles and legs, take a 6' length of 3/8" rod; first form a 6" handle by making a 90° bend 3" each side of the center of the rod. Bend the rod under the table ends by making 90° bends as shown. At 6" in under the table, bend the legs down and out toward the table corners as shown in Fig. 10-4. Turn table upside down on 2" x 4" blocks. Attach legs to underside of panels with straps formed from 1/8" x 3/4" bar stock and screwed to panels. Now adjust the legs so that at a point 18" from the table top, they come exactly over the table corners. Cut off legs at this point. Round them off, and turn completed table right side up. Polish aluminum with steel wool, and wax or lacquer.