Magazine Rack (Fig. 10-10) utilizes two pieces of 3/8" rod each 42" long for the frame and a single piece of embossed sheet 12" x 30" for the container. Start forming the sheet by marking off a line 12" in from each end. Then cut a curve on each corner as shown and bend up a curl to wrap around the rod at each end, per Fig. 3-11. Then make 90° bends at the lines marked out, clamping the sheet as in Fig. 3-6.

Now make the two bends in each rod about 14" from each end, using a 4" to 6" radius, bending around a circular form block to assure uniform shaping. Paint black, and let dry. Insert rods in sheet section, and close curls as tightly as possible. Trim corners of sheet if necessary to clear rods. Notch the rods deeply with a three-cornered file where they cross each other 6" from end of rod. Also cut sharp notches on the outside of each rod at these same points. Now cross rods, engage notches, and secure tightly by wrapping with strong cord such as fish line, or use picture-frame wire. Apply two thin coats of shellac or Duco cement, or glue to wrapping to help secure rods. Cover joint with small piece of embossed sheet as in Fig. 10-10.

Fig. 10-10.

Flight Cage (Fig. 10-11) gives birds lots of room for flying. It measures 36" long, 24" high, and 18" deep. Framing is 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle, cut and mitered at each corner, with the vertical corner posts acting as an inner strap joining the sections. See Fig. 4-43 for corner details. The door is 12" wide, centered in front face of cage.

Embossed sheet, 6" high, is riveted around sides and ends of cage for a splash guard. Upper portion is 1/4"- or 1/2-mesh hardware cloth held to the inside of the angle framing members by strips of 1/8" x 3/4" bar stock. Make the frame first; install embossed-sheet splash guards, then hardware cloth. Fit door, attach hinges, and latch.

Note that bottom front frame member is mounted up 11/8" above level of frame members at bottom of side and back panels. Notice also that the lower 11/8" of the front face of the vertical posts at front corners is cut away to permit the tray to slide in and out. This tray is framed from 1" angle separately to over-all dimensions of 353/4" x 117/8", and a sheet of embossed aluminum 1/4" shorter and narrower is riveted inside this frame. An extra piece of 1" angle reinforces and stiffens the tray at the center.

Fig. 10-11.

Stand (Fig. 10-11) uses 3/4" tube cut 30" long for legs, 1/16" x 1" x 1" angle for upper frame and shelf frame. Stand is 351/2" long, 171/2" deep. Since stand has no top, being merely a structural support for the flight cage, attach the legs to the frame by bolting directly to tube. Each top corner reinforcement is two thicknesses of plain sheet 3" deep and 3" on each wing. Rivet to angle, and attach to tube legs with sheet-metal self-tapping screws or through bolts.

Shelf framing members wrap around legs and have 94" holes drilled through upper face at corners to accommodate the tube legs. See Fig. 4-44 for details of this joint. Use two sheet-metal screws through angle into joint on each end and each side (four per leg) for maximum strength. Install white rubber crutch tips on feet.

Cut 94" plywood panel to fit shelf frame, face with embossed sheet, and rivet to frame members, completing stand.

Telephone Stand with Planter ( Fig. 10-12) employs top frame of ;x 1" x 1" angle with 1/2" plywood panel set into it. A planter box 4" wide, 4" deep, 16" long 10-13 of embossed sheet is suspended in the table top by small aluminum nails driven through sides of box into edge of hole.

Make back legs 271/2" long of 11/4" tube set into table top with blocks per instructions accompanying Fig. 4—57. Back legs are 4" from each end, 2" from back edge. Book-holder box is 18" wide, 4" high, 11" deep on top side, about 91/2" on bottom side. Make from embossed sheet, and put 1/4" hem around front opening, inside, per Fig. 3-5. Brace to which front legs are bolted at "A" is a single piece of 94" tube extending from back leg to box along right-hand edge of box and up at right angles to underside of table, across underside of table, back down to another right-angle bend, down alongside the left edge of box to left back leg. Bolt to box at three points down each edge. Fasten to underside of table with straps of x 94" bar. Join at "C" per Fig. 4-64.

Front legs are another single piece of 94" tube, bent as shown and bolted to the brace at "A" and with two more bolts at "B." Now end-rivet 3/8" rod stretchers from front to back legs 21/2" above the floor per Fig. 4-21. Add rubber or plastic bumpers to bottom of legs.

Floor Lamp (Fig. 10-13) features clean, simple lines that fit into almost any decor. Cut the 12" diameter circular base from a piece of 2" thick oak or maple. Drill a 94" diameter hole vertically through it 2" in from the edge. Drive into it a 6' length of 3/4" tube. Drill a 3/8" diameter hole from the edge of the base to the 94" hole, for the electric cord. Run the lamp cord through this hole, up through the 3/4" tube, and out to a lamp fitting and socket, obtainable at your electric shop.

Attach socket and fitting to end of tube and pull extra cord back down into tube.

Fig. 10-14.

Bend top 16" length of tube down to angle shown, using a 6" radius and following instructions for tube bending accompanying Fig. 3-27. Polish tube with steel wool and wax to avoid finger marks. Stain and varnish wood base any color desired. Attach shade to lamp socket.

Beverage Server (Fig. 10-14) requires one 6' length of 94" tube and a 6' length of 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle. Cut tube to 36" lengths. Bend each in center on 5" radius so ends are 14" apart. Attach white rubber crutch tips.

Make frame 12" wide, 24" long by bending and notching corners as shown in Fig. 4-39. Make frame ends butt together in center of back side. Cut panel from tempered Masonite or 1/4" plywood to fit inside frame. Screw, bolt, or rivet to frame. Cut 4" x 18" block for glasses from 94" plywood and use scroll saw or jig saw to make the six 23/4" holes which are staggered as shown.

Assemble frame to leg members with bolts or self-tapping sheet-metal screws, positioning the frame about 3" underneath the bend in the tubes.

Fig. 11-1.