Fig. 272 shows a sketch of a simple kind of hexagonal vase that can be made up either of tinplate, zinc, galvanised iron, brass, or copper. A half-elevation, Fig. 273, shows the exact shape or section of one side of the vase. From the point where the centre line meets the base line a joint line making an angle of 30° with the base line is drawn. The required angle to set out will, of course, depend on the number of sides the vase has. The general rule for obtaining the number of degrees is a simple one: "Divide 360 by twice the number of sides." In the present case the vase has six sides; hence the angle to set out is 360 divided by 12 = 30°. The profile of vase in elevation is now divided up, giving points 0, 1, 2, 3, etc., up to 16. Dotted lines

Y perpendicular to the base are drawn through each of these points, and continued across the base line to meet the joint line To set out the shape of one of the strips a centre line is drawn, and along this the lengths 0 to 1, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 etc., taken from the elevation, are marked. Lines square to the centre line are drawn through each point and the lengths of these cut off equal to the length of the line with the same number between base and joint lines in elevation. Thus, to mark off line 0 0', turn to point 0 in the elevation, follow the dotted line down to base line, and measure along the continued line between the base and joint lines; this will give the length 0 0'. In the same way obtain and set along the lengths 1 1', 2 2', etc., each side of the centre line in pattern. Carefully join these points up with curves or straight lines as required. It will be noticed that where lines are straight in the elevation the corresponding lines on the pattern will also be straight. For instance, lines 0 to 1, 7 to 8, and 13 to 14 are straight in the elevation hence 0' to 1', 7' to 8', and 13' to 14' will be straight in the pattern. Remembering this, it will always act as a guide in joining up the points in the pattern for a strip.

The bending of the parts can be carried out in the same manner as in the case of the candlestick, the curved portions being bent over a wooden roller. Before tacking the strips together a template (Fig. 273) for 120° should be cut out of a bit of sheet metal. This can be used for trying in between each pair of strips as they are being tacked together. After all the strips are tacked in position, and before completely soldering, the diameters should be measured to see if they are all the same. The vase should also be examined to observe if it has any twist.

Fig 272

Fig. 27S.

In this shape of vase it will be found that all the joints can be soldered down the inside. A bottom should be cut out, as in Fig. 273, allowing a small margin all round for turning an edge up. This edge is slipped inside the foot, and will facilitate the soldering, besides strengthening the edge of foot.

The top corners of vase will be much stronger if a small gusset (Fig. 273) is soldered over each joint. This gusset can be marked out from the top part of strip pattern, its centre line being equal in length to 0' 1'.

Any size vase can, of course, be made. It may, however, act as a guide to know that the drawings have been made to scale for a vase 10 1/2 in. diameter (across the flats) at top.

If the vase be a large one, and made out of tinplate, zinc, or galvanised iron, its appearance will not by any means be inartistic if painted a dead chocolate, green, or any other colour in harmony with its surroundings.