It is desirable that each student have her own pattern fitted to her so that she may be certain that the neck, the shoulder seams, and the arm curve do not need any alteration after the blouse is cut. (Fig. 60.)
With the help of a perfect fitting shirt waist pattern, a great deal of time and material are saved. The pleasure of making garments, when quick and satisfactory results are obtained, is greatly enhanced and thrift is fostered.
The human body is built very symmetrically, and to draft a perfect-fitting pattern for a middy blouse or a shirt waist for a normal figure only two measurements, the length of the back and the bust measure, are necessary. A figure is normal when the length of the front is 1/2" more than the length of the back. The relation of all the other measurements needed will be found in the following fundamental measurements. Standard Measurements
Length of back 15", bust 39". If the length of the back is 15", then the length of the front is 1/2" more, or 15 1/2". If the bust measure is 39", the width of the shoulders across the back
Fig. 60. - Middy Blouse and Petticoat with Pleated Ruffle is one-third of the bust measure or 13". To this is added 1" so that the waist may be loose. The total width across the back between the shoulders is then 14", which is the measurement across the back 4" below the neck. The chest measure 4" below the neck is 1" more than the width across the back, or 15". The underarm measure is one-half the length of the back. The neck measure is the same as the back, or 13". The waist measure is two-thirds of the bust, or 25 1/3". The sleeve measure is 1 1/2 times the length of the back. The hip measure, for girls up to 18 years, is the same as the bust measure. For adults, 1/10 of the bust measure is added. The hip measurement in the latter case is about 42".
A loose measurement for both bust and hips is advisable.
With the help of one well-fitted waist pattern, all the other garments such as the corset cover, shirt waist, nightgown with sleeves, one-piece dress, envelope chemise, middy blouse, top coat, and later on, all the tight-fitting garments may be made.
The middy blouse is a garment which is worn a great deal for gymnasium work, and hence must be very loose and ample. For this reason the shirt-waist measurements are enlarged as follows:
1/2" is added to one-half the width of the back and to the front, 1/4" to one-half the width of the back and the front neck, and 2" to half the bust measurement.
Fig. 61. - Chart to Facilitate Drafting of Patterns
1 1/2 or 1 3/4 yards of 44" material is required for a middy, or 2 yards of 36" material. This is sufficient for a double 12" collar, long sleeves, and cuffs.
Fig. 62. - Draft fob Middy Blouse
One-third of the KO line is equal to the width of the back neck measure EN, to the slope of the shoulder NQ and added to the width of the back indicates the under arm seam R.
For square to facilitate the drafting of patterns, see Fig. 61.
Drafting the Middy Pattern. (See Fig. 62.)
Cut a paper 22" by 26". Mark the corners
A, B, C, D. The line AB indicates the length of the middy and the center back. The line
AC indicates one-half of the width of the back and of the front.
AE From A draw a line 1" long on the. AB line, and locate E.
EF From E draw a line the full width of the paper, parallel to the AC line, and locate F under C. Mark this line "neck line."
EK From E draw a line 3 3/4" long on the AB line, and locate K.
KL From K draw a line the full width of the paper and parallel to the AC line, and locate L on the CD line. Mark this line "chest line."
EI From E measure 71/2" on the AB line, and locate I.
IJ Draw this line along the full width of the paper and parallel to the AC line, and locate J on the CD line. Mark this line "bust line."
EG From E on the AB line draw a line 15" long, and locate G.
GH Draw this line again the full width of the paper and parallel to the AC line, and locate H. Mark this line "waistline." The principal guide and construction lines are now located on the paper. The outline of the pattern may now be drawn.
EM From E on the EF line draw a line 2 1/2" long, and locate M. This line is equal to one-third of the width of half the back.
MN From M draw a line 1/2" long parallel to the AE line, and locate N. This raised line indicates the curve for the neck.
EN Connect E and N by a slightly curved line. This line indicates the back part of the neck of the middy.
KO From K draw a line 7 1/2" long on the KL line, and locate 0.
OP From 0 measure upward a line 2 1/2" long and parallel to the KA line, and locate P. This line is also equal to one-third of one-half the width of the back and is the same as the width of the neck EM.
PQ From P draw a line 1/2" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate Q. This extended line indicates the curve for the armseye.
NQ Connect NQ by a straight line. This line is 5 1/2" long and indicates the back shoulder seam.
QO Connect Q and O by a slightly curved line.
IE. From I on the IJ line draw a line 9 1/2" long, and locate R.
RO Connect R and O by a deep curved line.
This line indicates the armseye of the middy. Use the curve of the chart marked
"arm curve." BS From B on the BD line draw a line 10" long, and locate S. RS Connect R and S by a straight line. This indicates the underarm seam.
FT From F on the CD line draw a line 2 3/4" long, and locate T. FU From F on the FE line draw a line 2 3/4" long, and locate U. UV From U draw a line 1/2" upward and parallel to the CF line, and locate V. VT Place the point of the chart marked neck curve and connect V and T by curved line.
This line indicates the front neck line. XU From 1" below U draw a line 8" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate X. VW Place the point of the ruler or chart on
V and draw a line 5 1/2" long, meeting the
XX line at this point. This line indicates the front shoulder seam. LY From L on the LK line draw a line 8" long, and locate Y. This line indicates the chest measure. WYR Connect WY by a slightly curved line, and then place the chart with the arm curve on Y and the other end on LJ towards R. This line indicates the front armseye.
Fig. 63. - Draft for Sleeve