Fold canvas back as far as work is to go that there may be the firmness of double material for the long stitches. The illustration will show the working of alternate colours.

Place a netting mesh of ivory or steel, sometimes wood, even with the edge. T a k e a th rea d-e d rug needle over this from each hole in the canvas 10 times. Next the other needleful of second colour 10 times. When the mesh is full, the upper part can be made from 9 threads.

Make 9 stitches of graduated lengths, the longest one 9 threads high, cross corners. These should be the same colour as the tassel. The shorter and more open threads the reverse way are the colour of the next tassel, the centre longest one first, three each side, leaving a clear opening between each two.

A Good Finish For Canvas Work 132

The mesh can now be d r awn from throu gh the loops along it. Wind round and cut once 20 strands of each colour, place a short length of the thread through the loops and hold the cut ends taut to them and tie tight through 'the middle, pulling down firm, and afterwards clipping even.

The accompanying illustrations show something quite new in the way of decorating a glove and handkerchief sachet. The very realistic marguerites are made by covering a shilling-sized button mould with satin, silk or sateen, and then sewing on to the wrong side, some old-fashioned white vandyke braid. This braid should be put on with an "oversew" stitch, point by point, pushing each as closely together as possible.

When finished a running thread should be placed through the centre of the braid, right round the circle, in order to keep each "petal" in position.

The vandyke braid used in these designs is three-quarters of an inch in depth.



The buds consist of six points of braid gathere d tightly together, and enclosed in a li ttle silk calyx. The raw edges should be turned inwards, and running stitches used top and bottom.

The tubular cord represen ting the braiding stems is made by covering ordinary cord with silk or satin. As this is sometimes rather stiff, however, instead of using the soft cord, three or four strands of wool will be found much easier, as it will turn and twist more satisfactorily. After preparing the cord, place it carelessly on the sides of the sachet, turn it at intervals, and tie a loose knot or two. Let it "wiggle" itself into a pattern.

The sachets are made in the usual way by covering fairly stiff book muslin with a thin layer of wadding, then tacking over the outer side, sateen or silk. Work all the outside decoration next so that the stitches can be taken right through, and finally line the inside. The fastenings on these satchets are made by inserting little stiffened silk tabs between the outer cover and inside lining, and sewing on ordinary spring punch buttons.

This hand ker chief sachet is made in the same way a s the glove sachet.

This hand ker-chief sachet is made in the same way a s the glove sachet.

The only difference is that ordinary cord is used, and not the tubular cord.