This section is from the book "Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting", by Antoinette Van Hoesen Wakeman. Also available from Amazon: Scientific Sewing And Garment Cutting: For Use In Schools And In The Home.
The mechanical process of cutting garments by chart, which has been so long in use, seems, upon first examination, to be much more simple and teachable than the scientific method of this system. That it is not so has been abundantly proved by repeated and continued experiments with hundreds of children. Since the understanding of general laws makes all things plain, when the principal facts upon which this system is based are understood, the process is found to be as simple as it is reasonable. The system does indeed tax the understanding at every step, and it is the aim of its authors that it should do so. Anything less than this would defeat its chief object, which, as has been repeatedly affirmed, is to incite independent constructive thought.
While the aim of the system is primarily educational, it has also, as a means to an immediate end, advantages which are easily demonstrated. The subtle philosopher Amiel, in his famous journal, declares that every human being is a unique example, and should be so considered, and that satisfactory results cannot be obtained in any other way. This certainly is true in fitting the human form. It is of course possible to strike a general average; but when it comes to that nicety which distinguishes excellence, it can only be obtained by considering each individual as separate and exceptional. The scientific system of garment cutting makes this consideration of the individual one of its fundamental principles, as will be seen in the drafting of the waist of this grade. As a result, the work of fitting is almost entirely eliminated. In the school where this system has been successfully taught for the past six years, in more than one instance the graduating gown, which finishes the course, has been completed without being fitted, and proved in every way perfectly satisfactory.
Although the waist of this grade is a simple underwaist, yet as it is the foundation of all others, the drafting and cutting of it should be very thoroughly understood. The measures should be taken and the pattern drafted until it can be done with the utmost ease, without suggestion from the teacher.