Hemmed Seam: One inch and a quarter from the top crease a fold with the warp. Cut on this crease.

See description of the Hemmed Seam, page 91.

Putting a ruffle into a hem-tuck and tucking: Measure up from the bottom two and one-fourth inches - or twice the width of the hem-tuck plus one-fourth inch for the seam - and crease with the warp, across the piece. Machine stitch, or run by hand an inch tuck, taking care to measure and make perfectly even. Measure up three-eighths of an inch from this stitching and crease for another tuck. Stitch, or run by hand an eighth of an inch tuck. Measure up three-eighths of an inch for another tuck. Put in a cluster of three tucks. Hem the ruffle with an eighth of an inch hem, gather and stroke the gathers.

See description of gathering and sewing a ruffle to a straight edge, page 72.

Place the wrong sides of the cloth and ruffle together and baste to the edge extending below the hem-tuck, bringing the seam exactly to the edge of the tuck. Baste and stitch the edge of the hem-tuck over the seam of the ruffle.