John F. Adams.

One of the greatest step-savers for the house-wife is a kitchen cabinet, and but comparatively few know its value. It places within easy reach all the necessary utensils and articles needed for the larger part of the cooking, is easily kept clean, and can be located or moved so as to afford an abundance of light. The cabinet described here, while seemingly a rather elaborate piece of furniture, is easily made by any one having ordinary skill in the use of woodworking tools. For convenience in describing, the work will be divided into two parts: the base and the cupboard. The general design of these two parts is shown in Fig. 1. The base contains a large bin for bread-flour on the right, a compartment for cooking dishes and pans on the left, two large drawers on the right end for sugar and flour, and a large front drawer for knives, spoons, etc. At the right, even with the top, a bread or meat board, in the form of a drop leaf, gives additional space.

The upper part, or cupboard, has a molding-board which drops down and exposes three shelves for spices and other supplies. Over this is another compartment with two doors. In the upper right corner is a closet with a door, and below this two or three drawers, as preferred,- the design showing three,- in which articles in bulk may be stored. The wood used for the outside work may be oak, cypress or whitewood. Unless an experienced woodworker, either of the two latter kinds had best be used, only be sure to get thoroughly dried stock.

The first work in the construction of the base is the frame shown in Fig. 2. This requires four corner posts, A, 30" long and 2" square; four cross-pieces, B, 27" long and 2" square; two crosspieces, C, 36" long, 2" wide and 7/8" thick; three pieces, D, 251/4" long, 2" wide and 7/8" thick; matched boards to cover floor, E, 30" long, 27" wide and 7/8" thick, and additional matched boards for partition, F, 21" high and 27" deep; also, for an additional partition not shown, between the drawers and the flour-bin, which is 21" high and 17" deep. The frame may be made of any suitable wood other than pine, which is too soft.

For the flooring and partitions whitewood or pine may be used. The construction of the frame is clearly shown in Fig. 2, so no detail directions are necessary. The top of crosspiece C is 4" below the top of posts A. The piece D, over the partition F, is centered, and simply nailed through pieces C. The outer pieces D are nailed snug up against the posts A, and form the ledges for the drawer. The floor E is nailed to the bottom piece B, and the partition F is nailed at the top through the piece D and at the bottom through the floor. The joints for posts A and pieces B are "halved," and pieces C are mortised into posts A. These joints should all be well made, and care used to erect the frame perfectly square, that the drawers and doors will open easily. Strips of wood 1" square and 25" long should be nailed to the end pieces D, about 307/8" apart, to hold the drawer in position when closing it.

The frame being completed the casing will be considered, - that for the right end varying a little from the left. The method of joining is shown in Fig. 3. The pieces G are 30" long, 21/2" wide and 7/8" thick, the left one being grooved on the inside the whole length; the right one having a mortise 51/2" long at the top, 31/2" long at the bottom, and another 2" long, centered between those on the ends.

The piece J is 2" wide and 20" long, not including the tenons at top and bottom, which are each 1/2" long, making the length of this piece 21" over all. The left side has a groove running the whole length; the right side has a mortise corresponding to the one in G. A second piece of the same dimension as J, with grooving on both sides, is also required, as will be seen from Fig. 1. Two panels of 1/4" stock are required for the right end and three for the left end. They are 21" long and 61/2" wide for right end, and 65/8" wide for left end. The piece H is 6" wide and 221/2" long, with 1/2" tenons on each end, and grooved on the under side. The piece I is 4" wide and 221/2" long, with 1/2" tenons on each, and grooved on the upper side. The grooving can all be done at the lumber mill at little expense if, when the order for the lumber is given, the pieces to be grooved are specified. When all the pieces are cut out and accurately fitted they are put together, being firmly glued, and held tight with clamps while the glue dries. If no regular clamps are available, temporary ones may be made by screwing two blocks of wood to a strong, level board, far enough apart to allow a wedge to be driven in between one block and the frame. When completed the size should be such that, with the left side even with the front of piece A of the frame, the inside of the right piece G should be even with the inside of the post A of that corner, thus allowing the drawers to be easily fitted. The left end is made the same as the right, with the exception that a panel takes the place of the drawers, and the pieces G and J are grooved for the extra panel. Additional drawers may be made on the left end if desired, but the capacity of the cupboard in front will be just that much less.

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The front is easily made. The two upright pieces on the ends are 30" long and 31/2" wide, with mortises, 4" from the top, 2" long for the tenons on the crosspiece under the drawer. (See Fig. 1.) At the bottom ends 4" mortises are made. The crosspiece under the drawer is 2" wide and 303/4 "long, not including the tenons on each end, §" long, making 321/4" over all. The bottom crosspiece is the same length and 4" wide, with tenons. In the center of each cross-piece make 23/4" mortises for the upright center-piece between the cupboard and flour-bin, which is 23/4" wide. The ends and front being completed, they are fastened to the frame with some 2" wire nails of small gauge. Nail and glue the ends to the frame, and then the front, strongly gluing and nailing the joints between the front and ends. Any roughness of the joints should be carefully removed with a plane. This done, make the door of the cupboard and front of the flour-bin, the two being alike and are 20" high and 14" wide. With the experience already gained in framing, these will be easily made. The upright pieces are 20" long and 21/2" wide; the crosspieces 9" long, with 1/2" tenons on each end, making them 10" over all. Both upright and cross pieces are grooved on the inside edge for the panel pieces, which are of 1/4" stock, 141/4" long and 93/4|" wide. They should be well glued together, using clamps as previously directed for all glued work whenever possible to do so.