The drawer is 303/4" long, 4" deep, and 18" or 20" wide. The front piece is rabbeted on each end to receive the side pieces, only about 1/4" of wood being left on the front side. The side pieces are nailed into this rabbet, the rear ends of side pieces having a \" rabbet for the back piece. A 1/4" rabbet is run around the lower edge of all the pieces, to receive the bottom pieces. This makes a firm drawer, which will retain its shape. Use care to see that, when cutting out and fastening together, the work is square.

The flour-bin is at the front, the height of the door 20", but at the back only 147/8". The side pieces are 101/4" wide, with curved top, as shown, and the back piece 14" wide, and should be of smooth, clear stock 7/8" thick. The lower end» should have a rabbet 1/4" deep for the bottom board, which is 12£" x 103/4". The bin should be well glued, and nailed with wire nails, that the weight of the flour when it is full will not force it apart. It swings on two strong brass hinges at the bottom, and is held at the top by a small piece of wood which is screwed to the under side of piece C of the frame, after the hinges are on. The door to the cupboard has two brass hinges at the left side and a catch on the right. Two draw pulls are desirable for the drawer.

The two drawers on the end are 9" high, 61/2" wide and 15" long. They are framed the same as the front drawer, but have, in addition, a face board of 1/2" stock, which is-firmly glued to the front board of the drawer. It overlaps the front board 1/4" on all sides, and the outside edges are made quarter-round, to add to the appearance. Strips 1" square are nailed to the partition on the left and framework on the right, to form ledges for the drawers.

The top of the cabinet is 40" long, 30" wide and 7/8" thick. Clear, well-matched boards should be used, and preferably should be tongued and grooved, but may be simply glued up. Care should be used to see that the joints on the top side are perfectly even, and any projecting edges should be taken off with a plane after the glue is thoroughly dried. The top is nailed and glued to the piece B of the frame, projecting evenly at each end and front.

The drop leaf on the right is 18" long, 12" wide and 7/8" thick. The ends should have cleats with tongued and grooved joint. Two hinges are screwed to the under side, fastening it to the top. It is held up when in use by a strip of wood 10" long, 2" wide and 7/8" thick, with a hinge at the upper end, the lower end resting on a triangular block, as shown in Fig. 1. Each end of this piece is beveled to fit well, the angle of bevel being best determined by trial.

The back is sheathed with 1/2" matched sheathing nailed to the floor and the back piece C. Al" square strip may be nailed to the under side of the top, and the sheathing also nailed to it, making a tight joint between top and back.

With strong castors - preferably the kind having a flat plate, and attach with three screws - the base is complete and ready for the cupboard, although it may be used without the latter.

The general plan of the upper section, or cupboard, is shown in Fig. 1. The boards for the sides are 33" long, 12" wide and 7/8" thick; for the partition between the drawers and shelves, another piece 7/8" less in length. The top is 40" long, 13" wide and 7/8" thick; the bottom 37" long, 12" wide and 7/8" thick. The piece under the double closet on the upper left side is 26" long, 111/2" wide and 7/8" thick. The two shelves back of the drop leaf are 26" long, 101/2" wide, and 3/4" or 7/8" thick. The three pieces over the drawers on the lower right side are 9§" long and 111/2" wide. The top, sides and bottom pieces should have 1/2" rabbets on the back to receive the sheathing. Careful nailing with wire nails will answer for this part of the cabinet. The top projects 1" on each end and in front. The bottom piece is fitted to |" rabbets in the bottom of the two side pieces. The upright partition is 9|" from the right side piece. The three pieces over the drawers on the right side are 41/2" apart. The crosspiece over the drop leaf is 21" above the bottom piece. The shelves back of the drop leaf are 7" apart between centers, but may be otherwise spaced if preferred, giving more space to the lower ones. The drop leaf, which forms the molding board, is 26" long and 21" wide. This will probably have to be made up by gluing, with 2" clamps on each end, which should be tongued and grooved. A 2" strip may be nailed on top of the lower edge, that flour will not be spilled into the cupboard back of it. The doors of the upper left cupboard are each 12" wide and 12|" high, the frame for them being 21/2" wide, with grooving §" deep on the inside for the panels, which are 7f" by 8", and 1/4" thick. This makes the upright pieces 123/8" long, and the crosspieces 73/4 long, allowing §" on each end of the latter for the tenons.

A piece 2" wide divides the two doors. The door to the cupboard on the upper right side is 19" high and 93/8" wide; the side pieces for the frame being 19" long and 2" wide, and the top and bottom pieces 61/8" long and 21/2" wide, allowing \" on each end for tenons, with grooving 3/8" deep on the inside of each piece for the panel, which is 15f " by 614/8".

The three drawers on the lower right side are 93/8" wide, 41/2" deep and 10" long, outside meas