John P. Arthur

Antique or colonial furniture, at present so much in vogue, has many characteristics that appeal to the average person, especially as it can be made by the amateur who may have a taste for wood-working and possesses a moderate outfit of tools. There is, to such a person, a certain satisfaction in being able to show to a visitor, some piece of useful or ornamental furniture, accompanied with the statement that "I made it". The arm chair here described is not difficult to make, is strong without being too heavy to easily move about. It should be made of straight grained white oak, which takes the much desired " dull finish " nicely, and does not easily chip or crack. Birch or maple can be used if oak is not easily obtained. In any case, the wood should be thoroughly seasoned.

All joints should be mortised, glued and pinned. Finish the several pieces to a smooth surface with a wood scraper, then sandpaper thoroughly, using about No. 1 i first and finishing with No. 0. If a black finish is desired, stain with black asphaltum thinned with turpentine. After this sets (not hardens) rub down with powdered pumice stone ana raw linseed oil. When thoroughly dry, apply another coat of asphalt-um and oil, and rub down as before, continuing until the desired depth of color is obtained. A coat of varnish can then be added or not, according as a bright or dull finish is desired.

The legs are made of pieces 2" x 2", the front ones being 24" long, and the rear ones 40" long. The top ends of the front ones are cut in 1/4" on each side and

3/4" from the end, leaving the ends 1 1/2" square, fitting a mortise of same size cut in the under side of the front ends of the arms. The rear legs are tapered on the front sides from a point 17" from the lower ends to the top, where they are 1" thick, as shown in the side view. The rest of the chair is made from 1" stock, though the arms would looks better if made 1 1/4 thick. The cross pieces of the seat frame are 21" long and 3" wide. They are mortised into the legs flush to the outside, making the seat 22" square, with 2" squares cut out at the corners to allow for legs. This gives seat frame a sort of panel effect, as the seat projects over the frame 1" and is flush with the outside of the legs. The tenons on the cross pieces are cut only half the width, those on the side being on the lower half, and on front and back pieces on upper half, thus allowing them to pass by or cross each other in the mortises in legs, which are cut to receive them as stated.

The four cross pieces on the lower part of the chair have long tenons passing clear through mortises cut for them in the legs, the ends projecting |" on outside. These pieces are 23 1/2" long and 2" wide. Those on the front and back are 5" from floor, the two side pieces, 7 1/2" from floor, allowing the mortises to be clear of each other with1/2" of wood between. These tenons are cut 1/2" thick, giving on 1" stock a 1/4" shoulder. The four cross pieces forming the back are 4", 2" and 1" wide, as shown in front view. The two top pieces are mortised through the rear legs, and are 24" long. The lower piece is 20" long with 1" tenons at each end. The diamond at back is made of 1/2" stock, is 4" wide, and mortised with 1/2" tenons to cross pieces above and below. The seat is fastened to frame with strips 1" square screwed and glued to seat frame and seat With 1 1/2" wood screws.

The arms are 5" wide at the front, cut down to 2" wide at the back, with a rounding curve. They are 24" long, with J" tenons at the back, fitting mortises cut in rear legs. Both ends are glued and pinned. If care is used in making the tenons and mortises, a strongly built and servicable chair will result.