Francis L. Bain

When making any article of furniture it is advisable to first, plane and finish to the proper size, all the smaller and narrower pieces of wood when possible, then finish up the large and wider stock. If this method is adopted the wide stock (such as table tops, box covers, etc.,) has very few opportunities to become warped or checked while lying around waiting to be used after it has once been planed to its proper size.

For this reason the legs of the boot-blacking stand will be considered first of all, then the rails, and lastly the bottom and cover. Any kind of stock may be used for this stand, but pine or whitewood represent the usual choice. The four legs are to be cut from a piece of 1 3/4" or 2" plank, and they should be planed and finished very accurately to the following dimensions, length 15", width 1 1/2", thickness 1 i". After planing, number the first two adjoining sides on each piece (in the order in which they were planed) with small figures 1 and 2 and across these two sides on each piece a line is to be squared 5 i" from one end, and the surfaces are to be tapered with the plane from this line to the opposite end until the latter (which we will now call the bottom of the leg) is $" square. When the stand is put together, the two tapered sides face the inner part, while the two straight sides face the outer, or exposed part. A centre line for the dowel holes should now be drawn on the upper end of side No. 1, 1/2" from and parallel with the adjoining straight side, and commencing at the top of the leg. the following measurements should be marked off, 7/8", 1 1/2", 1 i". Taking each of these points as a centre, bore a |" hole |" deep. Repeat this process on the No. 1 and No. 2 sides of each leg, and place them aside until the rails are made.

The rails should be made from 7/8" or 1" stock, the two long rails finishing 11" loug, 4 |" wide, |" thick, and the two short rails firnishing 1" long, 4 J" wide, and |" thick. A line should now be drawn on both sides of each piece, which will be just midway between and parallel with the two broad sides of the rail. Commencing at either edge of the rail, mark off the following measurements, and as before bore a 3/8 hole 3/4'deep, 7/8", 1 1/2" 1 i". Then cut off 24 pieces of 3/8" dowel, each 1 |" long, and having put some liquid glue in the holes in the end of each rail, drive these dowels in as far as they will go; then put some glue into the holes in two of the legs and join them by fitting in place one of the long rails. Repeat this process with the other long rail and the remaining legs, and place each set in a cabinet makers' clamp, screwing it up firmly in order to draw the legs and rail securely together. After the glue has hardened or "set" remove from the clamp, and finish setting up the frame by gluing in place this short or end rail. Apply the clamps properly on each side and allow the frame to set for eight or 10 hours. ,

The bottom, which is to be made next, should finish up 12 1/4" long, 8 i" wide and 1/2" thick, and a little square corner is to be cut out of each corner of the legs. The size of the corner to be cut out is 5/8" square. The foot rest for the stand consists of two parts, the cast iron "shoe rest" (to be obtained at any shoe finding supply house and at many hardware stores) and the wooden base or support, which is next to be made. The finished size of this base is 12 3/4" long, 2" wide and 1/2" thick, and the cast iron "shoe rest" is to be attached to this piece by means of 5/8" wood screws. The cop is the last piece to be made, and for this purpose a piece of stock must be selected that is free from any warp or check of any kind. This piece is to finish up 15 1/2" long, 11 1/2" wide, and \" thick, and in order to give a little better finished effect, the edge can be "quarter rounded " with a plane.

After taking the frame from the clamps, it is to be sandpapered thoroughly inside, the bottom then being placed in position, with the under side flush with the bottom of the rails all around. Then drive two 1 1/2" steel wire brads through the lower part of each rail into the edge of the bottom in order to hold the latter in place. The slots or receptacles must now be cut in the inside of the ends, or short rails, as shown in the illustration. This slot is 2" long, 1/2" deep, and 1/4" wide, and it starts 1" from the inside face of the leg.

The figures given for the size of the top show an allowance of 3/4 for an overlapping edge all around, so before marking out the location of the hinges, place the cover on the frame, making sure that the proper margin extends over the outside of the legs all around, then with a pencil, mark around the tops of the legs on the under side of the cover. This will determine the distance from the edge at which the hinges should be placed. The hinges should be attached first to the cover, and afterwards the cover should be attached to the tops of the legs as shown clearly in the illustration. The final work is a thorough sandpapering, first with No. 1, then with No. 0 sandpaper. When not in use, the foot-rest may be removed from the slots and placed in the bottom of the box. The finish may be as desired by the maker.