The plank is of \" pine, well seasoned and clear, and in 14' lengths. If desired the boat may be planked up on frames in the ordinary manner, but this is not considered advisable at present unless the amateur has had considerable experience in boat building. The method to be outlined is one which is in common use for fishing boats and others. It is a very strong and tight method of building and very easy to construct. The planks are obtained in strips about 1 1/2" wide, and if planed to order should be slightly thicker than 1/2", as some planing will be required to finish. The planks are put on one at a time and edge nailed, each one to the one below. The girths of each mould should be divided into the same number of parts, and each strip tapered from the middle towards the ends to allow for the decreased girth at the ends of the boat. The first streak is nailed to the keel and twisted into the rabbet at the stem; the ends of the lower streaks should be kept about horizontal and be allowed to run off to nothing on the stem and deadwoods. It is edge nailed to the keel with about 3" galvanized wire naiis. These nails should be galvanized, small-head, finish nails, from 3" long down to 1 1/2" and of small wire. They are driven about 4" or 5" apart.

Each streak is planed before putting on and tapered at the ends. The edges should be painted with lead before fastening. A small hole should be bored for the nail before driving, as in this way the nail can be driven straighter with less chance of splitting out. At the ends, where the strips are tapered, shorter nails must be used. Great care will be necessary in driving the nails not to split the strip below. The strips should also be nailed flat to the stern with about 1 1/4" nails. The strips are put on one after the other, and as the turn of the bilge is reached tne edges are slightly bevelled to give the curvature without causing an open seam outside. In driving the nails in one strip, care mnst be taken to avoid the nails in the strip be-low. At the stern, also, the plank is fastened to the stern board. As the plank is being put on, the remaining girth of each mould and the stem should be watched to be sure that the top strips are coming out even without its being necessary to work in any uneven pieces to fill up. It should be so figured that the top strip will come to the gunwale line as marked on the moulds and stem and fit up neatly under the projection on the stern board. The lower strips of the bottom will be found the hardest to put on on account of the twist at the bow, but by nailing first amidships and using one or two monkey wrenches to twist them into place, little difficulty will be found. The upper streaks should be started from the bow, working towards the stern. The edges of the strips should be kept as even as possible to have little to plane off. The ends of the strips should be cut off even with the after face of the stern board. Great care must be used that the first few strips at the bottom are kept in close to the stem forward as there is a tendency to form a bulge at thts point unless careful attention is given to it. The outside of the boat is now to be planed and smothed up. On the bilge enough should be taken off to make a round, smooth surface. After being planed the surface is to be rubbed down with sandpaper.

Although with this method of building, frames are not necessary it is thought advisable to work in a few "binners," or small oak frames about 1x2" and about 12" apart. They should run from gunwale to gunwale in one piece except at the ends, where they will need to be in two pieces. They are fastened to the plank with copper or galvanized nails; if the former, a burr should be shipped on before riveting. The moulds may now be taken out, watching carefully to note any tendency to spring out of shape. The boat should now be painted both inside and outside with a priming coat. Braces shonld be placed inside the boat to prevent any change of shape.

The gunwales running around on the inside of the frames even with the top of the plank, are of oak, 2x5/8". They run all fore and aft, being let into the knees at the ends, as shown in Fig. 7. The knees are natural crook about 1" thick, the overlap of the gunwale and knee being about 4"; the gunwale is tapered on the under side to the same thickness as the knees, and

Knee, gunwale and plank are fastened with copper rivets.

The top edge of the stern board is rounded over, as shown in Fig. 3, and the stern post and keel are tapered down to 1 1/4"at the keel. The stem is trimmed down to 5/8" thick and the forward end of the keel is tapered to meet it. The top of the stem is cut off even with the forward knee and the face of the stem is fitted with a brass half round strip.

The seats are arranged as shown in Fig. 6. To support them a strip is fastened with rivets around on the inside of the frames about 7" down from the top of the gunwale on each side running from stem to stern. The seats rest upon this strip. They are 8" wide, preferably of hard wood, although soft wood may be used if the boat is to be painted all over. On the two middle seats two knees are fitted as shown, and on the forward seat, one knee. These knees are shaped to fit the curves of the side gunwale and are fastened to it by a rivet. These knees greatly stiffen the boat and prevent her warping. On the outside upper edge of the top a half round oak moulding about 5/8" diameter should be fastened to give a finish.

In the bottom of the boat a |" board about 9" wide is laid in the middle flat, being tapered at the ends to fit the boat and supported by short blocks; it will need to be in two pieces to pass between the seats, and each part is held down by a button so that it maybe removed for cleaning out the boat. On each side above the middle board, 3 narrow strips 1/2" thick and 2" or 3" wide are fastened inside the frames, leaving a space of about i". To make these strips two of the strips before used should be bent to the required curve and nailed together edgewise, forming a wide strip with the necessary bend or camber. The edges should be bevelled, and they may be fastened in place permanently. The upper strips may be each shorter than the one below.

A heavy ringbolt is to be fastened on the inside of the stem jnst below the knee, to fasten the painter or mooring rope to.

A back board should be made to fit between the stern knees about 3" away from the stern board. Its top should be rounded rather more than that of the stern board, and it is held in place by cleats on the stern seat and small chocks on the gunwale. The name of the boat is to be put on the backboard.

A rudder should be made, shaped as shown, of a solid board with a cleat across the lower edge. The top of the rudder is cut down to have a shoulder, front and back, to support the rudder yoke, the top being rounded over with a hole for the pin above the yoke. The rudder is fastened on with braces and eyes 6uch as are sold for the purpose.

To support the rowlocks, oak blocks about 8" long are fastened on the top of the gunwale and top strip with screws. The best position for the rowlock is a matter of trial, but 12" from the edge of the seat is right for the average person.

The boat should be painted two or three coats inside and out before putting into the water. It is suggested that the stern board seats, gunwale and half round moulding be finished in varnish. No calking is required, but anysmall cracks may be filled with putty after she is rubbed down with fine sand paper.

The boat thus built will remain tight for many years; it should never be calked, but after being stored for a season should be painted and allowed to swell up in the water when she will become tight again. The oars for this boat should be 7 1/2' to 8' long.